FRAGRANCE 57 Tyrosinase
100 80 60 40 20 0
0 IC50=0.088%
100 80 60 40 20 0
0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 Elastase
100 80 60 40 20 0
0.00 0.10 IC50=0.144%
100 80 60 40 20 0
0.20 0.30 0.40 0.50 0.60 0.70 Fragrance concentration in assay medium (%) 0.80 0.90 1.00 0 0.6 0.7 Fragrance concentration in assay medium (%) 0.8 0.9 1 Collagenase
IC50=0.224%
0.000 0.1000 0.2000 0.3000 0.4000 0.5000 0.6000 0.7000 0.8000 0.9000 1.000 Fragrance concentration in assay medium (%)
ABTS
IC50=0.027%
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7 Fragrance concentration in assay medium (%)
Figure 1: In vitro dose–response inhibition curves (ABTS, tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase) measured after integration into fragrance vehicles (internal dataset)
support and protection from daily environmental aggressors. Despite this relevance, formulation constraints
have historically limited the direct use of brown seaweed extracts in perfumed leave-on products. Typical issues include persistent marine or iodine-like odour notes and pronounced coloration, largely associated with naturally occurring algal pigments, particularly chlorophylls, which can impart green to dark brown hues. In conventional formulations, masking such
coloration often requires additional formulation strategies that can interfere with olfactory balance, diffusion, or overall fragrance character. For an active-fragrance system, these constraints are decisive: any active integration must be sensorially neutral within the fragrance concentrate and must not create physical instability (haze, precipitation, or phase separation) across diverse perfume profiles.
Bioactive fragrance technology: composition, solvation strategy, and stability requirements The incorporation of marine-derived cosmetic actives into fragrance concentrates poses specific formulation challenges that differ fundamentally from those encountered in conventional cosmetic matrices. Fragrance concentrates are complex multicomponent systems primarily designed to solubilize lipophilic materials, whereas algae-derived bioactive fractions are largely polar and poorly compatible with standard perfumery environments.
www.personalcaremagazine.com The bioactive fragrance approach described
here is based on the integration of a deodorized blend of Ascophyllum nodosum and Fucus serratus extracts into a fragrance-compatible formulation system comprising a perfume matrix and a dedicated solvent architecture. Deodorization of the algae blend is a prerequisite to minimize olfactory interference and preserve the intrinsic character of the fragrance. A central technical challenge lies in achieving
complete solubilization of the polar bioactive fractions within perfume concentrates. This is addressed through the combination of two solvent functionalities with complementary properties: one predominantly hydrophilic component, capable of interacting with polar algae-derived compounds, and one amphiphilic component, providing compatibility with the surrounding perfume matrix. The interplay between these two functionalities enables effective dispersion of the extract blend within the fragrance concentrate, yielding homogeneous and visually transparent systems without phase separation or turbidity. Stability is defined not only in terms of physical
appearance, but also with respect to preservation of colour, olfactory intensity, olfactory quality, and viscosity over time. Physical robustness is evaluated under accelerated ageing conditions and across a broad temperature range (5°C to 45°C) to ensure that the system remains stable and sensorially consistent, independently of the perfume type. From an industrial perspective, these criteria translate into actionable
performance benchmarks for formulation screening and quality control. Finally, the formulation is designed to
maintain measurable biological activity at use levels compatible with conventional fragrance incorporation in cosmetic products. This requirement is critical, as fragrance systems typically represent a limited fraction of the finished formulation. Under these conditions, the bioactive
fragrance system aims to deliver functional skin‑related effects while remaining physically and sensorially indistinguishable from a conventional fragrance concentrate, in finished products.
Materials and methods: assay principles for bioactivity The bioactive fragrance system was evaluated using in vitro assays designed to investigate mechanistic pathways relevant to skin well- ageing and tone uniformity. The selected assays target complementary biological functions commonly associated with cosmetic anti-ageing performance, including antioxidant capacity, regulation of melanogenesis, and inhibition of enzymes involved in extracellular matrix degradation. These in vitro methods are widely used in cosmetic research as part of a weight-of- evidence approach.1 Antioxidant activity was assessed using the ABTS radical cation decolorization assay,2,3
a
spectrophotometric method commonly employed to quantify radical-scavenging capacity. The reduction of the ABTSradical was monitored at
September 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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0.9
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