40 SKIN CARE AsA ■ VC-3G ■ 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 0 2 4 (Week) Figure 3: Stability of AsA and VC-3G in aqueous solution 8 12
TABLE 1: FORMULATION OF HIGH CONCENTRATED SERUMS
Component
VC-3G or AsA Glycerin
Ethoxydiglycol
Potassium Hydroxide Water
pH 3.0-4.0
glyceryl group is introduced into the 3-position hydroxyl group of ascorbic acid (Figure 2), the most ionic part and the main cause of discolouration. This modification stabilizes its molecular structure, effectively reduces its ionic strength, and enhances the overall stability of the compound, while simultaneously improving its moisturizing benefits. As a result, formulations containing a high
concentration of VC-3G exhibit significantly less colour change compared to other ascorbic acid derivatives, even after prolonged storage under high-temperature storage conditions. Furthermore, the measurement result of
residual ratio of the material indicates that VC-3G has a more stable structure than other ascorbic acids, ensuring long-lasting efficacy in formulations. Its high stability makes it particularly suitable for formulations with high concentrations of ascorbic acid derivatives. On top of that, VC-3G also demonstrates
100
notable bioactive properties. It also offers protection against photoageing caused by UVB, UVA, blue light, and near-infrared light, making it a multifunctional ingredient ideal for advanced skin care applications. These findings suggest that VC-3G can be
80
the option for developing stable cosmetics with multiple skin care benefits.
60 0 AsA Figure 4: Stability of high concentrated serums The day after preparation 50°C after 4 weeks VC-3G
Stability of VC-3G Stability in aqueous solutions To evaluate the stability of VC-3G, aqueous solutions of ascorbic acid or VC-3G were prepared and stored at 25 deg. C for 12 weeks, and the residual ratio of active ingredients was then measured over time. As shown in Figure 3, the residual ratio of ascorbic acid decreased over time, while that of VC-3G maintained an almost unchanged residual ratio, demonstrating its exceptional stability.
AsA MAP VC-3G Figure 5: Stability of emulsions containing AsA and AsA derivatives PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE September 2026 VC-3G
Stability in high concentrated serums Furthermore, we examined whether it was possible to stably formulate high concentrated serums, which are typically challenging to stabilize using ascorbic acid and its derivatives (Table 1). As shown in Figure 4, the high concentrated ascorbic acid serum exhibited significant discolouration and a decrease in residual ratio over time. In contrast, the high concentrated VC-3G serum showed less changes in discolouration and maintained a stable residual ratio, confirming that a stable high concentrated serum could be prepared by VC-3G.
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(w/w%) 15.0 21.4 0.5 0.5
Up to 100
Residual ratio (%) Residual ratio (%)
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