LONGEVITY 67
The remarkable power of Haberlea rhodopensis
Veliyana Nedeva – Innova BM ABSTRACT
Skin ageing is a multifactorial biological process driven by cellular ageing, oxidative stress and the degradation of the extracellular matrix.1
This article highlights the important
Haberlea rhodopensis, also known as the Orpheus flower or Rhodope silivryak, is a rare Balkan plant from the Gesneriaceae family, well known for its ability to survive extreme dehydration—earning it the name, ‘resurrection plant’. Traditionally used in folk medicine for wound healing, detoxifying and treating infections, it is now gaining attention in the cosmetic industry due to its rich phytochemical composition and high content of Myconoside - a compound known for its skin-protective and rejuvenating properties.3
Analysis of extracellular vesicles Exosomes are tiny extracellular vesicles (EVs) released by cells, with growing potential in cosmetics, skin care, tissue repair and dermatology.4
Panalytical Ltd., UK). DLS analysis revealed that the isolated EVs included two distinct particle populations—one averaging approximately 100 nm in diameter (exosomes) and a second group measuring around 400 nm (microvesicles).2 The size and shape of the EVs is critical to their function and potential. Their shape and small size, ease of modification and ability to cross biological barriers make them promising tools for both therapeutic and dermatological applications. This contributes to effective absorption by cells and plays a key role in the regenerative benefits of exosomes.6 Transmission electron microscopy (TEM)
Research on the composition of
plant-derived EVs has revealed that they carry a range of biomolecules, such as lipids, proteins, mRNA and more.5 Found in various plant tissues, EVs are gaining
attention for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and regenerative potential. EVs are part of the culture medium of H. rhodopensis grown in vitro. They displayed characteristics similar to those from other well-studied plants, further highlighting their promise for use in skin care and dermatological applications.2 The size distribution of the EVs was
determined using dynamic light scattering (DLS), measured by Malvern Zetasizer Nano ZS (Malvern
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provided high-resolution images of the EVs, revealing their spherical shape and size variation between 50 and 200 nm. Most vesicles appeared symmetrically round, with occasional oval forms, all showing intact structures.2
Preserving healthy cell morphology and protecting skin from early signs of ageing Cell morphology is a key marker of cellular health and function, especially in the context of skin- related applications. Phase-contrast microscopy was used to evaluate how BJ human fibroblasts respond to treatment with 2% Myconoside-rich extract and 2% Exosome-rich extract. After 24 hours of treatment, the cells
retained their characteristic elongated fibroblast morphology, with no visible signs of stress or
role of plant-derived bioactive substances and extracellular vesicles (EVs) in maintaining cellular balance, supporting tissue repair and alleviating age-associated structural and functional changes. It explores the effects of Innova BM’s patented biotech Haberlea rhodopensis in vitro culture extracts - both the Myconoside-rich extract (InnovaBioTech Haberlea) and the Exosome- rich extract (InnovaBioTech Resurrection) - on critical cellular mechanisms in human dermal fibroblasts, including cell structure, mitochondrial behaviour, lysosomal function, gene activity and DNA damage. EVs were characterized by their size, shape and structure through dynamic light scattering, negative staining, and transmission electron microscopy. A detailed in vitro evaluation was performed using light microscopy to observe cell morphology and lysosomal content, fluorescence microscopy to examine actin cytoskeleton, mitochondrial health, and nuclear architecture, along with gene expression analysis for collagen-related genes (COL1A1, COL3A1), senescence marker (CDKN1A) and oxidative stress regulator (NFE2L2). Cell cycle dynamics and DNA integrity were also assessed using the neutral comet assay.2 Results showed that both active ingredients from Innova BM — InnovaBioTech Haberlea and InnovaBioTech Resurrection — supported fibroblast structure, boosted mitochondrial mass and stimulated collagen gene expression. Both demonstrated good biocompatibility and high efficacy as bioactive ingredients for skin anti-ageing treatments.2
These findings
highlight the potential of H. rhodopensis — a unique and protected resurrection plant rich in the rare molecule Myconoside — for use in cosmetic and dermatological formulations aimed at enhancing collagen production, preserving cellular health and minimizing age-related changes in skin cells. The research behind this article reinforces the value of nature-based, scientifically validated actives in shaping the future of skin health and beauty2
September 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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