SKIN CARE 41
TABLE 2: O/W EMULSION FORMULATION CONTAINING ASA AND ASA DERIVATIVES
Component VC-3G or AsA or MAP
Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside Squalane
Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoalkane, Laureth-7, Water
Ethoxydiglycol, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben
Potassium Hydroxide Water
pH 3.0-4.0
Stability in emulsions Simple O/W emulsions containing 1% ascorbic acid or its derivatives were prepared from the ingredients shown in Table 2 and stored at 50°C for four weeks to check the appearance of the formulations. Ascorbic acid and Magnesium Ascorbyl
Phosphate (MAP) were used as a comparison: the emulsion containing ascorbic acid and MAP showed separation on the second day after the preparation, while the emulsion containing VC-3G was non-separating and was considered to be a stable formulation (Figure 5).
Stability in gels The stability of the gel formulation was tested next. Gels containing 1% ascorbic acid or VC-3G were formulated according to the formulations shown in Table 3, stored at 50°C for four weeks and then tested for changes in viscosity of the formulations. The results showed that the viscosity of the
gels formulated with ascorbic acid decreased significantly, whereas the viscosity of the gels formulated with VC-3G did not change on the second day after formulation and remained almost unchanged after four weeks of storage at 50°C. In addition, clear discolouration was
observed in the ascorbic acid-containing gels, and the residual ratio of ascorbic acid in the gels decreased to about 70%. On the other hand, no discolouration was observed in the gel containing VC-3G, and the residual ratio of VC-3G was almost 100%, confirming its high stability (Figure 6). VC-3G can be regarded as a multifunctional
ascorbic acid derivative that can be easily formulated into various cosmetic formulations. Based on these results, VC-3G was confirmed
to be a highly stable ascorbic acid derivative with minimal impact on formulation stability, preventing destabilization in various formulations. Additionally, since high concentrations can be
achieved, VC-3G is expected to maximize efficacy within formulations.
Bioactivity of VC-3G Enhances collagen production Ascorbic acid is well known for its ability to enhance collagen production. As a derivative
www.personalcaremagazine.com 0 20 40 60 Viscosity change (% of control)
The relative viscosity change of each test formulation is calculated, with the viscosity of the control formulation set at 100% Viscosity measurement conditions: Brookfield viscometer, Rotor No. 4, 30 rpm, 25°C
Figure 6: Stability of gels containing AsA and VC-3G
n=4, Mean±S.D. **p<0.01, *p<0.05 significant from the control group
350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
2 days ■ 7 days ■ ** ** ** ** ** ** *
n=4, Mean±S.D. **p<0.01 significant from the control group
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
AsA AG MAP VC-3G
Figure 7: Enhancing effect on the collagen production of normal human skin fibroblast
of ascorbic acid, VC-3G also demonstrates a significant effect in this regard. To evaluate its collagen-boosting potential,
we conducted a study using normal human skin fibroblasts. The cells were cultured for one day before the medium was replaced with medium containing ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside (AG), MAP, or VC-3G. The culture was then continued, and collagen levels in the medium were measured at two and seven days post-treatment. The result shows that VC-3G enhances the
collagen production of normal human skin fibroblasts. Additionally, it is observed that the collagen production after continuous use for seven days is higher than that after two days, confirming its long-lasting effect (Figure 7).
Suppresses melanin production We also conducted a study to evaluate the suppressive effect of VC-3G on melanin production of melanocytes. Melanocytes were cultured for one day before the medium was replaced with a fresh medium containing active component of VC-3G along with a melanin production enhancing agent (theophylline).
1 mmoI/L ■ 3 mmoI/L ■ ** ** ** Strong cytotoxicity AsA AG MAP VC-3G
Figure 8: Suppressing effect on the melanin production of melanocytes
TABLE 3. GEL FORMULATION CONTAINING ASA AND VC-3G
Component
VC-3G or AsA Carbomer Glycerin BG
Ethanol
Ethylhexyethanol Phenoxyethanol Buffering agent* 1
Potassium Hydroxide Water
(w/w%) 1.0 1.0 1.0
3.0 5.0 0.5 0.5 1.0
Up to 100
*1 pH 4.5: Citric Acid/Sodium Citrate, pH 7.0: Sodium Phosphate/Disodium Phosphate (pH Conditions) pH 4.5: 3GA-containing formulation, pH7.0: Vitamin C-containing formulation *Each ingredient is adjusted to its stable pH
The culture was then continued, and after three days, the medium was removed to assess the amount of melanin produced within the cells. The results demonstrated that VC-3G
effectively suppresses melanin production in melanocytes, highlighting its potential for skin- brightening applications (Figure 8).
September 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE ** 80 100
(w/w%) 1.0
5.0
10.0 0.5
0.3
Adequate amount
Up to 100 VC-3G AsA residual ratio 74% Next day ■ 2 weeks (50°C) ■ 4 weeks (50°C) ■ residual ratio 99%
Relative collagen production (% of control)
Inhibition of melanin production (% of control)
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