58 FRAGRANCE BEFORE AFTER BEFORE AFTER


Figure 2: Clinical study on superficial spots instrumental imaging at 56 days (VISIA-7)


approximately 734 nm, and results were expressed as half-maximal inhibitory concentrations (IC50


). Tyrosinase inhibition was evaluated using


the LDOPA oxidation assay, which measures dopachrome formation as an indicator of melanogenesis-related enzymatic activity.4 Absorbance was monitored near 475 nm, and inhibitory activity was calculated relative to appropriate controls. Collagenase inhibition was determined


using the synthetic chromogenic substrate N[3furylacryloyl]LeuGlyProAla (FALGPA) in buffered conditions,5


supplemented with calcium


ions, enabling spectrophotometric monitoring of substrate cleavage over time. Elastase inhibition was quantified using a pnitroanilide‑based substrate, with release of pnitroaniline monitored at approximately 405 nm.6 In these internal datasets, samples were tested as a function of fragrance concentration in the assay medium, reflecting the practical constraint that fragrance is incorporated at low levels in finished cosmetic products. This experimental design allows assessment of whether biological activity is retained under concentration conditions relevant to real-world cosmetic use.


Results: in vitro dose–response activity after integration into fragrance matrices The internal dose–response dataset demonstrates that the algae-derived active fraction retains measurable biological activity after integration into fragrance matrices (Figure 1). Tyrosinase inhibition increased progressively with fragrance concentration in the assay medium, reaching approximately 50% inhibition at around 0.09% (estimated IC50


).4 Collagenase inhibition followed a similar


concentration-dependent trend, with approximately 50% inhibition observed near 0.22%,5,6


and higher concentrations resulting in more pronounced inhibition. Antioxidant PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE September 2026


Figure 3: Clinal studies on wrinkles at 56 days (VISIA-7)


activity assessed by the ABTS assay showed near -50% radical scavenging at about 0.03%,2,3 with near-complete scavenging observed at higher levels. Elastase inhibition, derived from residual enzyme activity, was also consistent with a concentration-dependent response, with an estimated IC50


of 0.15% bioactive fragrance.6 These in vitro results do not constitute evidence


of clinical efficacy by themselves. Their scientific relevance lies in demonstrating that the bioactive fraction remains functional after incorporation into fragrance systems and is not inactivated, precipitated, or sequestered by the perfume matrix. The observation that inhibitory and scavenging activities occur within a low concentration regime supports the feasibility of retaining bioactivity at fragrance-relevant use levels, which represents a key technical requirement for bioactive fragrance systems.


Finished-product substantiation: instrumental imaging To complement mechanistic in vitro data, instrumental imaging was performed using the VISIA-7 system over a 56-day period on 23 volunteers using cream application at 1% fragrance, with assessments at baseline, day 28 and day 56.7


The cream used for instrumental


evaluations consisted of a deliberately simplified emulsion matrix designed to minimise formulation‑related confounding effects. Apart from the fragrance-based bioactive


system incorporated at 1%, the formulation did not include additional cosmetic actives, nor ingredients specifically intended to provide emollient or hydrating functions. Wrinkle index (eye contour) and superficial spot index were evaluated. A statistically significant reduction in the superficial spot index was observed relative to baseline at both assessment times (Figure 2), with decreases on 61% of volunteers at day 28 (p = 0.02) and on 64% of volunteers at day 56 (p = 0.03).7


These outcomes support substantiation


of a tone‑uniformity and superficial spot–related message under the specific study conditions. Representative before and after clinical


photographs are shown to illustrate surface skin appearance changes observed during the study period (Figure 3); while wrinkle-related parameters did not reach statistical significance, these images provide qualitative visual context to the instrumental measurements.


Finished-product substantiation: instrumental cutometry (elasticity parameters) Instrumental evaluation of skin mechanical properties was further conducted by cutometry on 20 volunteers using cream application at 1% fragrance over a 56-day period, with measurements at baseline, day 28, and day 56.8 Cutometric parameters were selected to describe complementary aspects of skin elasticity, including gross elasticity (R2), net elasticity (R5), and elastic recovery (R7). A statistically significant increase in gross skin


elasticity (R2) was observed at day 28 compared with baseline (p < 0.05) on 75% of volunteers, indicating an early modulation of elastic response. Furthermore, elastic recovery (R7) showed a


statistically significant improvement at day 56 (p < 0.05) on 75% of volunteers, reflecting enhanced recovery following mechanical deformation at the later time point. No statistically significant change was observed for net elasticity (R5) at either assessment time. 8 Taken together, these findings indicate time‑dependent and parameter‑specific effects on skin elasticity.


Consumer study: perceived benefits after 56 days (standardised wording) A consumer study was conducted on 23 volunteers using cream application at 1% fragrance over 56 days using a digital self-assessment questionnaire.9


Favourable responses were www.personalcaremagazine.com


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