32 MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
Figure 2: Fatty acid furan ingredient platform derived from upcycled agricultural residues combined with renewable fatty acids obtained from plant oils. Modulation of fatty acid chain length enables tuning of hydrophilic-lipophilic balance and rheological behaviour, providing a versatile platform for bio- based, readily biodegradable ingredients for rinse-off and leave-on personal care applications
Foam Height
50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0
0.00
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
CapB
Stearic Acid
CapB +1.5%
CapB +3% SF-b CapB 0.50 1.00 1.50 2.00 NaCI Concentration (wt%)
Figure 3: Salt thickening behaviour of the exemplary 15 wt% AOS, 3 wt% CapB shampoo formulations, collected on an IKA Rotavisc lo-vi viscometer. Viscosity was measured as a function of NaCl concentration for formulations containing CapB alone, CapB with 1.5 wt% stearic acid, or CapB with 3 wt% SF-b. Inset: High shear foam data collected on a Black and Decker 40 oz 10 speed blender following ASTM D3519 with a measured blade rotation of 13,700 rpm. Each 2 wt% NaCl solution was agitated for 30 seconds, after which time the initial foam height was measured, followed by a subsequent measurement after five minutes had expired
TABLE 1: SHAMPOO PROTOTYPE USED FOR THE RINSE-OFF EXAMPLE Phase
A B C D
Ingredients/declaration Deionized water
Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Propanediol Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Propanediol
Evaluated fatty acid furan blend Sodium Chloride
WT%
34.00 1.00
37.50* 17.0** 5.00 3.00 2.50
Procedure: Heat and maintain phase A to 65 °C. Premix phase C then add to phase A with slow stirring until uniform and clear. Premix phase B and add to phase A/phase C with slow stirring until homogeneous. Allow formulation to cool over stirring, slowly add phase D
* Formulations were prepared using Pilot Calsoft L-40 AOS, which is shipped at 40 wt% actives. Total active material is 15 wt% in the formulation. Variable results were found with other brands of AOS. **Formulations were prepared using a cocamidopropyl betaine solution which is shipped at 31 wt% actives. Total active material is 5.27 wt%.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE September 2026 2.50 3.00 3.50
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0
CapB + 3% SF-b
CapB + 1.5% Stearic Acid
“evaluated blend” or “SF-b”, as a multifunctional structuring ingredient for personal care formulations. Using representative rinse-off and leave-on prototypes, we evaluate its influence on structured surfactant systems, high-oil oil-in- water emulsions using rheological behaviour, foam performance, polarized microscopy, and sensory attributes. Due to the equiweight contribution of stearic
acid to stearoyl furan, formulations including the relevant amount of stearic acid are included in the dataset to disambiguate the stearic acid contribution to behaviour. Stearic acid is a classic structurant that is no longer in regular use due to it resulting in high-drag formulations with a waxy feel.
Rather than presenting fatty acid furans as
universal replacements for existing structurants, the data suggest they represent a new formulation platform capable of providing enhanced structure and sensory performance while offering the additional benefits of 100% renewable carbon content, ready biodegradability, and utilization of biomass feedstocks.
A molecular hook for formulators Formulators naturally compare a new lipidic ingredient against familiar tools such as stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and waxes. Those materials can build excellent structure, but much of their effect comes from relatively regular hydrocarbon packing and crystalline or lamellar network formation. When the level is increased, firmness and viscosity may improve while drag, brittleness, soaping or waxy after-feel also rise. The working model for fatty acid furans is
different. A furan ring is a small, planar, oxygen- containing aromatic heterocycle attached via a direct carbon linkage at the second ring position to a long-chain lipid framework. In a mixed fatty matrix, that flat heteroaromatic element may introduce packing defects into otherwise more
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Viscosity (mPa·s)
Foam Height @ 5m ns (mm)
% Foam Collapse
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