36 4


MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS


TABLE 5: PRACTICAL FIRST-PASS SCREENING GUIDE Endpoint


Control High-oil O/W cream Standard O/W lotion Opaque cleanser/cream wash Anhydrous balm or butter Clear aqueous serum or gel 3.0% 1.5-2.0% 1.0-2.0% 2.0-4.0%


Avoid routine sampling


3% SF-b is added to the system the images show increasingly spherical and a visibly narrower oil- droplet size distribution. All of the formulations show evidence on


a cloudy, semi-continuous matrix surrounding the oil-rich domains, however the uniformity of matrix as well as the strength of its visual signature increase from the control to the 1.5% stearic acid sample to the sample with the evaluated blend. The observed improvements in high-shear rheology are consistent with a hypothesis of improved oil phase immobilization within the continuous matrix in the evaluated samples.


These images should not be treated as proof


of a specific molecular mechanism, but they do provide visual support for the rheological behaviour observed in the high-oil system. A more uniform dispersed phase would be expected to distribute mechanical stress more evenly during rub-out, reducing localized failure and helping the emulsion remain coherent under application-relevant shear.


Formulation design principles and boundaries The main development rule is to give the material a defined job. In a high-oil emulsion, that job may be retaining structure under shear and reducing oil expression. In a structured cleanser, it may be supporting opaque body, foam cushion or salt- response behaviour. In an anhydrous balm, it may be controlling pickup, payoff, bloom or oil bleed. The compatibility boundaries should be framed


as part of the design logic, not as a weakness. Because the stabilization concept appears to depend on development of a structured lipid-rich continuous phase, the material naturally needs an oil phase, heat and appropriate processing to express its architecture. It should be added to a fully molten oil phase at approximately 75-80°C and mixed until uniform before emulsification. It is not a good fit for clear aqueous serums, cold- process transparent gels or formulas where haze, crystallization or opacity would be unacceptable. For first-pass sampling, use a matched-control


ladder. In a high-oil cream, compare the base, the evaluated blend and a stearic-acid or incumbent- structurant control using the same oil load,


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE September 2026


Evaluated blend


Base plus stearic-acid or incumbent-structurant control


Fatty acid, fatty alcohol or current structurant Pearlizer, alkanolamide or polymer benchmark Current wax or butter structurant Not applicable


emulsifier level, processing temperature, shear history and cooling profile. In a cleanser, compare the base, the evaluated blend and the normal pearlizer, alkanolamide or polymer benchmark after the same equilibration period. Record sensory with a repeatable score sheet:


pickup, cushion, spread, playtime, drag, tack, whitening, oil expression, residue and final film uniformity. Run the notes at T0, after 24 hours and after storage or heat exposure, because many high-oil and structured-cleanser failures only appear after equilibration. Reported support includes 100% biobased


carbon content by radiolabel testing (ASTM D6866). According to the definitions and calculation methods established in the ISO 16128 standard, this ingredient has a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 1.0 and a Natural Origin Content of 100%. Those inputs support ingredient review but do not replace finished-product safety assessment.


Platform outlook The results presented here suggest that fatty acid furans are best viewed as a new class of multifunctional, bio-based formulation ingredients rather than as direct replacements for conventional structurants. Across both opaque rinse-off cleansers and high-oil oil-in-water emulsions, the evaluated blend consistently improved formulation body, resistance to shear, foam robustness, and sensory performance while maintaining 100% renewable carbon content and ready biodegradability. Rheology, polarized microscopy, and


sensory observations consistently supported the interpretation that Furasoft-SF is consistent with a more cohesive, matrix-supported formulation structure, resulting in improved oil-phase organization and greater structural integrity under use conditions. Comparisons against stearic acid controls


further indicate that these effects cannot be explained by fatty acid content alone, supporting the interpretation that the stearoyl furan component contributes uniquely to formulation structure.


Conclusion For formulators, the practical value lies in treating


Formulator meaning Oiling off, rub-out uniformity, greasiness, rheology Viscosity drift, grain, soaping, playtime, residue Salt curve, foam density, opacity, rinse feel Pickup, payoff, bloom, sweating, grain, fracture Boundary only; haze, crystallization, clarity loss


Furasoft-SF as a structure-guiding ingredient rather than simply as a viscosity modifier. The greatest opportunities appear in formulations where maintaining structural integrity during storage and application is more important than maximizing viscosity alone, including high-oil emulsions and opaque structured cleansing systems. As demand continues to grow for renewable


ingredients that deliver measurable functional benefits, fatty acid furans provide formulators with a new molecular platform for designing products that combine structure, sensory performance, and sustainability in a single ingredient class.


Author acknowledgement The authors acknowledge Ecoslay and Glen Brizius for constructive discussions that contributed to formulation design considerations and preparation, as well as identification of application-relevant performance metrics evaluated in this study.


References 1. Bozell JJ, Petersen GR. Technology development for the production of biobased products from biorefinery carbohydrates - the US Department of Energy’s Top 10 revisited. Green Chem. 2010;12:539-554


2. van Putten RJ, van der Waal JC, de Jong E, Rasrendra CB, Heeres HJ, de Vries JG. Hydroxymethylfurfural, a versatile platform chemical made from renewable resources. Chem Rev. 2013;113(3):1499-1597


3. Mariscal R, Maireles-Torres P, Ojeda M, Sadaba I, Lopez Granados M. Furfural: a renewable and versatile platform molecule for the synthesis of chemicals and fuels. Energy Environ Sci. 2016;9:1144-1189


4. Tadros TF. Application of rheology for assessment and prediction of the long-term physical stability of emulsions. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. 2004;108-109:227-258


5. Bellare JR, Davis HT, Miller WG, Scriven LE. Polarized optical microscopy of anisotropic media: imaging theory and simulation. J Colloid Interface Sci. 1990;136(2):305-326


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