26 MENOPAUSAL SKIN CARE


Glutathione cell replenishment Under BSO stress


100** 81*** 74 69*** 217*** Lipid peroxidation in stressed cells 358


100**


No


oxidative stress


Untreated


Skinosya™ SAG 0.05%


Glutathione 0.044%


Figure 1: In vitro ELISA assay in human keratinocytes after 24-hour 50mM BSO stress exposure. 24-hour pre-treatment with active (***p<0.001)


radical-trapping antioxidants by enzymes such as ferroptosis suppressor protein 1 (FSP1).7 Intracellular glutathione is the central


antioxidant required for the activity of glutathione peroxidase 4, the enzyme that detoxifies lipid hydroperoxides before they cause membrane damage. In a healthy state, skin cells have effective antioxidant and lipid peroxide repair systems. When those systems are overwhelmed, peroxides accumulate to lethal levels, triggering ferroptotic death. Ferroptosis has recently been linked to


ageing and to a range of cutaneous conditions supporting the hypothesis that it may also contribute to age-associated skin deterioration under conditions of persistent oxidative stress.8 Recent work on kidney cells found that


estrogens can protect against ferroptosis. Certain estradiol metabolites act as direct lipidradical scavengers while estrogen receptor signaling is also involved in anti-ferroptotic function.9 Estrogen deficiency has been shown to accelerate postmenopausal damage through ferroptosis. Thus, the postmenopausal skin is


characterized by a pro-oxidative shift, worsened by the loss of estrogen’s protective effects. A 50-year-old menopausal woman experiences differences in the ageing process compared to a 50-year-old man or a pre-menopausal woman of the same age. Standard anti-ageing ingredients address


chronological ageing pathways but targeting specifically ferroptosis offers a promising strategy to promote skin resilience and longevity for menopausal women.


A bioavailable glutathione innovation Glutathione is a tripeptide (glutamic acid, cysteine and glycine) and one of the most powerful antioxidants produced naturally by the human body. It is a key redox regulator, as a central component of antioxidant systems and a free radical scavenger. However, it faces a


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE September 2026


No


oxidative stress


Untreated


Skinosya™ SAG 0.05%


Figure 2: In vitro ELISA assay in human keratinocytes after 24-hour BSO stress exposure. 24-hour pre-treatment with active (***p<0.001)


In basal conditions Untreated SAG 0.1%


In stressed conditions No oxidative stress


Untreated Under oxidative stress


SAG 0.1%


Figure 3: In vitro evaluation of mitochondrial network in human fibroblasts using Mitotracker (fluorescent dye), 24-hour incubation with active in basal or under menadione-induced stress (**p<0.01)


major limitation for cosmetic application: poor bioavailability. This limitation has long frustrated formulators seeking to harness glutathione’s antioxidant power in skincare products. S-Acetyl Glutathione (SAG) addresses this


challenge through acetylation, a modification that can protect the glutathione molecule from its rapid oxidation or degradation before reaching the cells of interest. GSH is a hydrophilic molecule, which limits


its penetration into the stratum corneum while SAG is less polar, offering potentially better skin permeability. SAG acts as a precursor of


GSH, that releases active GSH by hydrolysis by skin thioesterase in the cells. Drawing on Lesaffre’s 170-year mastery


of fermentation, Innosya—its new cosmetic ingredients activity—developed Skinosya SAG (INCI: S-Acetyl Glutathione). This ingredient is produced through precision fermentation using Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a food-grade yeast strain.


This biotechnological approach offers


multiple advantages that extend far beyond simple ingredient production. The fermentation process produces pure, homogeneous S-Acetyl


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GSH level (nmol/mg of proteins, % vs control)


MDA levels (nmol/mg of proteins, % vs control)


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