90 FORMULATIONS
C Feniol (Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol) Trealix® (Trehalose,Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein) Red Alga GEL® (Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract) AZELOGLICINA® (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) Parfume
D Water Sodium Hydroxide
1.00 2.00 2.00 5.00 0.60 0.20 0.05
Procedure: Weight phase A and melt at 70 °C. Prepare phase B and heat at 70 °C to disperse B1 under homogenizer. Emulsify A in B under homogenizer, until it forms a homogenous system. Cool down at 30°C and add the components of phase C. Adjust with D until the desired pH. Properties Aspect: semi-consistent emulsion Color: ivory Odor: characteristc pH: ivory Viscosity with Brookfield: 4’600 mPas
TRI-K REPAIR & SHINE INTENSIVE CONDITIONER
PHASE INGREDIENTS A Water
Glycerin
INCI NAME Water
Glycerin
Hydroxyethylcellulose1 Natrosol™ 250 HHR CS Disodium EDTA2
Cetrimonium Chloride3
Phenoxyethanol4 Potassium Sorbate4
VERSENE™ Na2 Crystals Maquat® CETAC-30% TRIstat P5
Potassium Sorbate FCC, NF
B Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Esters
Cetyl Esters
Behentrimonium Chloride5
Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane6
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride7
Brassica Campestris/ Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer4
Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil
C
Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride4
Maquat® BTMC-85 XIAMETER® PMX-0345 GalMOL CCT PhytoVie® Defense Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil TRIspire Vitalize Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide
SI 5-25 % W/W
81.89 2.00 1.00 0.20
0.50 1.00 0.25 1.00 5.00 0.50
1.00 1.00 1.00 0.50 2.00 1.00 0.16
Procedure: Add hydroxyethylcellulose to the water and mix until fully hydrated. Once fully hydrated, heat to 70-75°C and add the remaining ingredients of Phase A. Combine Phase B ingredients and heat to 70-75°C. Add Phase B to Phase A with high sheer mixing. Start cooling under propeller agitation. Cool the batch to 40°C and add Phase C ingredients individually. Mix well under propeller agitation until uniform.
Suppliers: 1. Ashland, Inc. 2. The Dow Chemical Company 3. Pilot Chemical Company 4. TRI-K Industries, Inc. 5. Mason Chemical Company 6. Xiameter/nexeo™ solutions 7. Galaxy Surfactants, Ltd.
UNIVAR SIX
PHASE INGREDIENTS A
B Olivem® 20202
Biochemica® Cocoa Butter Nat2
Dow Corning® CB-3046 Fluid3
C
Dow Corning® CE- 8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion3
Kem Nat4
Refreshing SY1549525
INCI NAME Water (Aqua)1
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Dimethicone and Phenyl Trimethicone and Trimethylsiloxysilicate and Dimethiconol
Bis-Isopropylamino-PG-Propyl Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PEG- 14 Copolymer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Butyloctanol
Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate
Fragrance
3.0 1.0
5.0 2.0 1.5 0.5
Procedure: Weight phase A and heat to 75-80°C. Separately combine phase B and heat to 75°C. Add phase B to phase A at 75°C whilst stirring and mix until uniform. Cool to 40°C whilst stirring. At T<40°C, add phase C ingredients in order, mix to ensure uniformity between each addition Properties pH = 6.40 Viscosity: (spindle 6; 10 rpm; 1 min) = 74,800 cPs (74.8%) Application: Take a dollop of the mask, apply it on the length and tips of the hair. Leave it to work all night long. It can be rinsed off or styled the next day. White, shiny jelly cream. Stability: Stable at least 2 months at 4°C, RT and 40°C (still on going).
Suppliers: 1. Univar* 2. Hallstar / Univar* 3. Dow / Univar* 4. Akema / Univar* 5. Kao Fragrances / Univar*
VOELPKER SUN LOTION SPF 15
PHASE INGREDIENTS INCI NAME
A Deionised Water Aqua Glycerine 99.5 %1
Magnesium Sulphate2
B WARADUR® GE3
Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil4
dermofeel® PGPR5 Tegosoft® CT6 Cosmacol® ESI7 Cosmacol® OE7
Solaveil™ XT-300- LQ-(WD)8
C Cotton Water E_14079879 Glycerine Magnesium Sulphate
Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate Citric Acid
Citric Acid Glyceryl Montanate
Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Tridecyl Salicylate Dicaprylyl Ether
Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhy-droxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina
Fragrance
01
% W/W q.s.
22-16-1-7 % W/W
62.60 4.00
0.70 0.50
0.20 0.60
0.90 5.00
5.00 5.00 5.00
10.00 0.50
Procedure: Heat the water phase (Phase A) and the oil phase to 80°C. Slowly add the water phase slowly into the oil phase (Phase B) while stirring. Homogenise for 1 minute with the SilentCrusher/ULTRA-TURRAX® at 20,000 rpm. Allow to cool down while stirring with the IKA paddle stirrer at 300 rpm. Add the perfume phase (Phase C) at a temperature of below 40°C and homogenise for 1 minute with the SilentCrusher/ULTRA-TURRAX® at 20,000 rpm. The sun lotion is now ready for packaging. Properties Appearance: white, soft w/o emulsion Viscosity (Brookfield DV3T, spindle 6/speed 10/time 30 s) 18,900 mPas pH value: – Centrifugation (15 min at 4,000 rpm): no separation
Suppliers: 1. AOT 2. Inter-Harz 3. VOELPKER 4. Henry Lamotte 5. Dr. Straetmans 6. Evonik 7. Sasol 8. Croda 9. Mane
PERSONAL CARE May 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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