52 WAXES & BUTTERS
Butters, oils & waxes: moisturising is key
Merinda Gruszecki, Joy Yuan - Jarchem Innovative Ingredients, US
Our skin deals with constant misfortunes. From daily life damage to sun exposure to product irritants, one thing is always needed: moisturisation. According to a 2020 survey published by Statistica, using data from a Simmons National Consumer Survey, 25.45 million Americans use a moisturiser on their face at least 14 times a week.1
in skin care. Emollients and occlusives can be added to creams, lotions, gels, and balms which allow our skin to experience greater benefits in multiple ways. In this article, the focus will be on emollients, such as shea butter and oils, and occlusives, such as a vegetable alternative to lanolin wax.
With this type of
constant usage, it is important for us to make sure the ingredients in our moisturiser are doing the proper job. We need to moisturise. It keeps our skin
hydrated and protected from the outside environment and all the daily struggles our body experiences. Moisturising is a crucial step in everyone’s skin care routine and is a staple that will only continue to prove its importance. The overall goal of moisturiser is to keep the skin soft, protected, and promote healthy skin elasticity.2
But what really is a moisturiser and
what goes into it that allows our skin to feel soft and refreshed? The key categories of moisturiser ingredients
are emollients, occlusives, and humectants which can sometimes include others such as cationic surfactant/polymers and silicones. Moisturisers can coat the skin, limit transepidermal water loss, or attract water to the skin, making them an important ingredient
90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
0 °C 10 °C 20 °C Figure 1: Shea butter and oil melting profile. PERSONAL CARE May 2021 30 °C Temperature
Butter Ingredients such as shea butter, cocoa butter, and palm oil are all emollients that can make formulations and applications much more effective. By incorporating emollients into formulations, they can create a soft and smooth delivery in personal care products. When it comes to butter, shea is a
natural, plant-based option that has been an ingredient used in personal care products for centuries. From ancient civilization to modern-day society, shea butter is an ingredient that has kept our skin protected and soft throughout our lives. Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) Butter which comes from the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) is extracted from the tree’s seed kernels. Its unique combination of triglycerides and minor lipid components makes it an ideal choice for functional cosmetic products. Its rich content of bio-active triterpene esters,
SB10 ■ SB15 ■ SB35 ■ SB45 ■
such as lupeol and amyrin cinnamates, provides beneficial effects including anti- irritancy, anti-inflammatory, and enhanced UV-B protection.3
Shea butter products are all
excellent emollients that will allow optimum moisturisation to combat dry skin, irritation, and protect our skin from the outside environment. Shea butter can be further made into
different textures that can be added to various cosmetics and creams. Different variations of Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter can vary in melting point range. Jarchem offers Jarplex™ SB10, SB15, SB35, and SB45. As shown in Figure 1, all have different melting curves to allow for wider opportunities depending on applications. Jarchem’s line of shea butters and
derivatives feature a wide selection of shea products with characteristics suitable for diverse applications. For example, Jarplex™ SB35 is shea butter
that melts around 35°C which allows it to soften at skin temperature when rubbed in. It stabilises to a uniform, consistent texture, even in products with a high vegetable lipid content such as body butter and balms. Although commonly used in moisturisers, its ability to hold a structured shape makes for an excellent addition to structure-sensitive sticks and pencil formulations. Jarplex SB45 also offers unique and
valuable physical properties. This product has a melting point of around 45°C but is soft at room temperature. Designed to provide an attractive skin feel for super-high shea content (>75%) formulations, it provides great flexibility in maximising shea loading and functional skin benefits. It is softer than Jarplex SB35 and achieves a soft skin feel in a finished application.
40 °C 50 °C 60 °C
Oils Oils are routinely used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products because of their emolliency and association in offering skin and moisturising benefits. There are a variety of oils such as shea butter-based oils, açai oil, and palm oil derived products that allow for effective hydration and skin protecting properties. With moisturisers being a key component in the skin care industry, being able to offer different variations and ingredients integrated into formulations allows for wider reach of
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