SUN CARE
3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 0
10% SymEffect Varytex ■ 30% SymEffect Varytex ■
31
find the right UV filter combination and covers the required ratio between UVA and UVB absorbance. Together with the emulsion base it is possible
to develop products with different textures, from thin liquid to creamy providing sun protection factors (SPF) from 6 to 50+ and broad spectrum protection from ultraviolet radiation. On closer inspection of the ecological and
Classic thickener combination
Natural thickener combination
Figure 3: Classic thickener combination: Carbomer, Xanthan Gum Natural thickener combination: Scleroglucan, Xanthan Gum, Microcrystalline Cellulose
can be easily combined with the UV filter blend described here. The used combination of emollients provides a harmonic skin sensation and can counteract the known stickiness of some UV filters. The incorporated emulsifier keeps the emulsion stable. By simply adjusting the use level of the emulsion base (recommended range is 10% to 30% by weight in the formulations), one can change the textures from sprayable liquids to creams. The increase of the amount also triggers the sensorial impact from light to rich. For more creamy textures with a light skin-feel, the emulsion base can be used at the lower part of the recommended range and be combined with additional texturisers. The base is compatible with synthetic thickeners such as Carbomer as well as with natural based such as Xanthan Gum (Fig 3). Only product protection systems, optional
additives such as moisturisers or soothing ingredients and eventually a fragrance need to be added to UV filter blend and the emulsion base, to make the sun care product complete. Both the UV blend and the emulsifier base are liquids. This facilitates the handling in production significantly. The number of weighing and dosing steps in
the production will be reduced from 12 to only 2. Pourable or pump-able ingredients make
an accurate dosing simple. The exposition of operators to dust evolving process steps can be limited, as the handling of powdered UV filters such as Bemotrizinol or BMBM becomes obsolete. Principally, it is possible to apply all different
types of emulsification processes. This includes of course the typical hot/hot process, but also cold/cold or hot/cold processing is possible. However, this depends not only on the use of the two described mixtures, but also on the given manufacturing equipment and the choice of additional raw materials in the final formulation. Even an “all-in-one” process could be possible. Table 2 shows a formulation example
with the broad spectrum UV blend and the O/W emulsifier base. This sunscreen lotion protects the body skin during sunbathing. Its light texture spreads easily on the body and is quickly absorbed by the skin. To consider the consumer expectations the lotion is enriched with anti-ageing, antioxidant and soothing active ingredients to keep the skin protected, moisturised and soothed.
www.personalcaremagazine.com May 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Conclusion The UV blend and the emulsion base described in this article enable formulators to create a whole range of sun care products or skin care products with claimed SPF. Even for those who are not yet well-versed in the development of such products, the UV filter blend offers a comfortable way to
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economic impact many manufacturers will come to the conclusion that the employment of the two products will help to save time and energy in the manufacturing process. Less quality control (QC), simplified order
management and a reduced number of stock keeping units in the warehouse might additionally pay off.
Notes 1. Not approved in USA, Canada and Brazil 2. Not China compliant 3. EU: European Union / Mercosur: Mercado Común del Sur / ASEAN: Association of Southeast Asian Nations
PC
Viscosity at 20°C/mPas
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