TEXTURES
Transformative textures with oil gel emulsifier
Lim Kheng Wei, Caroline Mabille, Barry Zhang - Solvay Specialty Chemicals
A quick search of “texture” or “format” in Mintel Insights will yield an abundance of listings about innovative launches offering sensory experiences designed to connect customers with products and brands. For example, innovating with jelly textures can be used to evoke excitement and fun in consumers and create an opportunity to boost the product’s benefits with enhanced claims, such as cooling and hydrating. Creating products with gels and jelly textures can add a touch of lightness and bounciness to signal playfulness.1 Oil-based formulations have a wide
appeal for consumers who perceive oils as gentle and nourishing, making them ideal for inclusion in personal care products. Oil cleansing has become especially pertinent during the pandemic as skin over-cleansing leads to excessive dryness and strips it of friendly bacteria.2
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In the hair care industry, the
popular use of hair oils can be traced back to the 4,000 year-old Ayurveda heritage. While Indian consumers are accustomed to using hair oils for overnight treatments, Mintel research suggests that achieving wider appeal in Asia will require products to adopt a routine with a rinse-out step after a 20-minute application to prevent grease and residue build-up.3
The
inconvenience of using oils, however, does present a unique opportunity to introduce a more easy-to-use product, such as an oil-in- gel, that can provide the consumer with more control during use. The combination of an oil-in-gel hybrid
format provides the ingredients needed to create a recipe with engaging textures and
Figure 1: Oil Gel formulated product and schematic of gel formation mechanism.
formats. According to Mintel, developing transformative textures that are fun, more convenient or eco-friendly (i.e. use less water) also provides an opportunity to sharpen the focus on facial cleansers during the COVID-19 crisis.2
Consumers are said to associate gel-
based cleansers with a refreshing and gentle feel that invigorates the skin. This perception is observed with gel textures that transform to oil upon touching skin for better sebum and makeup-removing effects, or those that foam up when mixed with water for product residue removal.1
TABLE 1: OIL COMPATIBILITY COMPARISONS BETWEEN GLYCERINE AND SORBITOL AS EXTERNAL PHASE.
Oil/S Mineral oil
Pure Ester Oil** Triglycerides*
Mineral Oil + Triglycerides* Ester Oils** + Triglycerides
Glycerin Oil Gel 60-80 60-80
Not Compatible Mineral Oil: 45-65
Triglycerides: 10-30 Ester Oils: 40-50
Triglycerides: 10-25
Glycerin oil gel is stable with low polarity oils
Sorbitol Oil Gel 60-80 60-80 60-80
Any Ratio Any Ratio
Sorbitol oil gel is stable for oils with larger range polarity
* Triglycerides: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Plant oils e.g. Coconut ** Ester Oils: Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate
To alleviate the negative attributes of the
runny oil format, current market solutions include polyglycerides and sucrose esters. Since these options require high-use levels, they can present difficulties in stability and robustness, creating challenges for formulators. Solvay offers an Oil Gel Emulsifier for creating transparent to translucent products with a gel-like appearance that can transform into an oil texture during use. Mildness studies have been performed to support its use in leave- on and rinse-off applications in skin and hair products. This technology addresses consumer
FORMULATION 1: EXAMPLE OF PRESERVATIVE-FREE OIL GEL. Ingredients (INCI NAME)
Glycerin
Oil Gel Emulsifier Isohexadecane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Isopropyl Myristate Ethylhexyl Stearate
Glycerin (and) Marrubium Vulgare Extract Fragrance
Deionized Water Formulation SC-17-099 - Internal phase = 70%.
W/W% 20.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
20.0 40.0
2.0 0.5
2.0
www.personalcaremagazine.com
May 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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