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50 TEXTURES Glycerin oil gel is stable with low polarity oils Solvay Prototype At the end of the routine (Prewash + Shampoo) Market Benchmark


Market Benchmark


Solvay Prototype


Hair is shiny light & soft


Figure 7: Superior Foaming and dry hair feel benefits using Pre-Wash Nourishing Concentrate routine.


overly coated build-up on hair, which can be problematic for consumers with fine hair. The light signature feel of this interesting routine will resonate with consumers who want their hair to feel sufficiently nourished, but left with a light, bouncy conditioning feel that signals voluminous hair (Fig 7). This offers the consumer more creative options for styling or camouflaging a thinning scalp.


Scalp cleansing oil Overactive sebaceous glands often create excess sebum on Asian hair, resulting in insufficient scalp cleansing due to oily residue. A warm and humid climate can further exacerbate scalp/skin disorders and itchiness. Using the Scalp Cleansing Oil formula (Formulation 4) before shampoo use is a perfect routine for dry scalp treatment. Leaving no build-up behind and ensuring cleanliness, the Scalp Cleansing Oil is proven to be deeply


FORMULATION 3: PRE-WASH NOURISHING CONCENTRATE.


Ingredients Oil Gel Emulsifier


Polycare® Split Therapy Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride


Mackaderm® LIA MB Isoamyl Laurate


Mackaderm Cocoa


Mackaderm® MCT Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride


Mackester® GMS Glyceryl Stearate


Mackpro® Plus Rice C Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein


Tocopherol Fragrance Glycerin Water


PERSONAL CARE May 2021


% as supplied 5.0


0.1


30 10


28.9 1.0 1.0


0.05 0.1 20


q.s. to 100


therapeutic in providing a pleasant sensory experience. As an oil format, it also latches onto the skinification trend to further excite the consumer. The cleansing oil gel is applied and massaged on the roots of dry, unwashed hair, with the gel making its transformation into oil. After waiting three to five minutes, the consumer can begin rinsing to experience the second conversion of oil into a milky texture and light foam that washes away clean. The shampoo step to follow gives a resulting clean, moisturised feel to the scalp, concluding a fulfilling scalp treatment experience. The TEWL data from the oil gel formula (presented earlier) demonstrates the consumer benefits expected to be found in scalp cleansing solutions. As a leave-on routine, the oil-gel formula


can also be adjusted to fit the concept of a serum product, with the suitable inclusion of actives to support claims of hair repair and nourishment. Solvay is also currently


FORMULATION 4: SCALP CLEANSING OIL .


Ingredients Oil Gel Emulsifier


Mackaderm® LIA MB Isoamyl Laurate


Mackaderm® MCT Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride


Shorea Robusta Seed Butter


Mackester® GMS Glyceryl stearate Jojoba ester


Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Water


% as supplied 5.0


40 28


1.0 1.0 0.1 0.1 20


5.5-6


performing studies to validate the performance of formulation prototypes containing the Oil Gel Emulsifier for textured hair.


Other possible applications Solvay laboratories have used the Oil Gel Emulsifier to successfully create prototypes for other interesting applications, such as stick formats like lip products as well as clear sunscreen products. The Oil Gel Emulsifier can also be used as a robust emulsifier for oil-in- water emulsion products.


Conclusion To answer the increasing need for personalisation in skin and hair care routines and satisfy the pampering trend reinforced during the pandemic lockdown, the Oil Gel Emulsifier technology can be used to create products that are visually attractive. We have seen how, at a low use level of up to 5%, a translucent or transparent oil gel appearance can be achieved using the external and internal phases’ index-matching technique. The technology can help reinforce concepts for transforming textures and indulging the luxurious nourishing of oil formats. This oil gel technology can be deployed to innovate skin and hair routines to provide consumers with significant benefits they cannot find in existing regimens and traditional personal care products. Consumers are likely to be pleasantly intrigued by the transforming format and subsequent benefits the oil gel brings, along with the opportunity to enjoy a truly memorable, sensorial experience.


References: 1.. Mintel Insights: The rise of jelly textures in beauty April 2019


2. Mintel report: A year of innovation in facial skincare, Sep 2020


3. Mintel Insights: Hair oils will drive conditioner use in India, Jul 2016


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Hair is weighed down, dull & oily


PC


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