WAXES & BUTTERS
consumers within personal care. Trends are forever changing and being aware of what customers want in their products is equally as important as knowing what products they are looking for. Ideal for dry skin, oils within personal care products allows for a more effective way of reducing water loss from the skin surface.4 Instead of using butter, the use of oil in
an application can be easier to formulate with as well as help avoid elevated heating levels. For example, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil is a shea butter that has a melting point around 10°C. Ideal for spray formulations, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil is an excellent moisturiser when added to spray-on sunscreens. Due to its melting point, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil stays liquid at room temperature making it a great addition to body and massage oils. There are many shea butter derivatives
that offer various benefits such as intense spreadability (Octyldodecyl Shea Butterate), makeup removing properties (Isopropyl Shea Butterate), and water affinity abilities (Shea Butter Glycerides), etc. Due to these attributes, they are a popular choice when incorporated into balms and wet wipes. For example, Octyldodecyl Shea Butterate is a nature-based, moisturising ingredient that has an improved oxidative stability when compared to shea butter alone. It is fast spreading and when absorbed into the skin creates a less waxy feel without being tacky. Shea Butter Octyldodecyl Esters are an excellent choice when used in protective products, i.e., irritated skin products or cold weather applications. The 50 Shades of Shea Lotion (Formula
No. DJT01066) is packed with varying shea ingredients and made up of nearly all shea in the oil phase (Formulation 1). It has 99%
FORMULATION 1: FORMULATION COMPONENTS OF 50 SHADES OF SHEA LOTION (FORMULA NO. DJT01066).
Phase Ingredients
A Water Zemea
Jarplex™ SB-WS50 Euxyl K940
B
Biopure™ GLDA Jarplex™ SB-WD Jarplex™ SPG Jarplex™ IPS
Jarplex™ SB-EE Jarplex™ SB10 Jarplex™ SB45 Jarplex™ SB-OE
Jarplex™ SB60-DP Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol INCI Aqua Propanediol PEG-50 Shea Butter
Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Shea Butter Glycerides
Coco-Glucoside (and) Shea Butter Glycerides Isopropyl Shea Butterate Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Octyldodecyl Shea Butterate
Distarch phosphate (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Glyceryl Stearate Cetyl Alcohol
natural origin content according to ISO 16128. This formulation is a great source of moisturisation and creates layered protection that soaks into the skin. This rich, velvety cream provides satisfying shea benefits right to the face and body. Suitable for all skin types, 50 Shades of Shea intense moisturising capabilities makes it an ideal formulation especially for dry, flakey, and irritated skin. The multiple forms of shea butter and derivatives incorporated into this formulation creates a deep moisturising experience without a heavy skin feel. This silicone-free lotion will leave the skin feeling supple, soft, and well nourished. Aside from shea butter, there are
many other plant-based oils that can be incorporated into moisturisers to add stronger
Spreadability Filamentous
10 8 6 4 2 0
% w/w 64.8 5.0 1.0
1.0 0.2
10.0 2.0 5.0 1.0 1.0
3.0 1.0
2.0 2.0
1.0
ties to naturally focused products as well as boost consumer appeal. Below we will discuss palm oil, açai oil, and coconut oil, as three examples.
Tackiness Thickness Shine Vegetable Lanolin ■ Lanolin ■ Figure 2: Properties of Lanolin vs. Vegetable Lanolin.
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Palm oil Palm oil is a versatile product that is used worldwide and across several different industries. Within the cosmetic and personal care industry, palm oil can be used in soaps, creams, and just about any type of cosmetic. Due to the entire palm fruit being available for palm oil extraction, it makes palm oil a relatively cheaper alternative to other fruit-based oils. With the high demand and oil yield, the palm oil industry has created a need to set a standard when harvesting palm effectively and efficiently without hurting the environment it grows in. The Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil, RSPO, developed a regulated criteria that companies and manufacturers must follow to be approved to produce certified palm oil. In following these guidelines and standards, these companies may promote their products as RSPO certified. Unfortunately, only 19% of the world’s palm oil is certified by the RSPO, which leaves a large amount unaccountable by certain regulations.5 In using responsibly sourced palm oil, one can positively impact the environment through battling deforestation and protecting the biodiverse regions that are home to so many species. Officially established in 2004, the RSPO is a not-for-profit organisation that brings together the different sectors of the palm oil industry. The group of producers, traders, manufacturers, retailers, investors, and NGOs, all come to one table to implement set standards to produce sustainable and responsible palm oil. With over 4,000 current members worldwide, RSPO works to ethically transform markets through a monitoring and evaluation process to hold members and their progress accountable.5
Açai oil Like palm oil, açai oil comes from a versatile
May 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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