20 SUN CARE
Benefits of natural clay- based additives for sun care
Kate Watermann, Christina Schenatzky, Valentin-Burzynski and Kim Burch – Elementis, US
Consumer awareness of the importance of skin protection goes well beyond the beach. Sunscreens are no longer seasonal and are being used daily in all regions of the world. Formulators of effective sun care protection products must ensure that they are in alignment with current global health and wellness megatrends as well as increasing consumer demand for sustainably-sourced, environmentally friendly ingredients and other additives that yield such benefits as protection from ultraviolet rays, ease of application, smooth skin-feel, instant glow or tanning effects, and moisturising. Three key sun care product trends have
emerged in recent years: ■ Focus on health Consumers want sun care products made with naturally derived additives and that address health and wellness requirements such as broad-spectrum sun protection for skin cancer prevention and anti-ageing benefits. We use sunscreens to protect our skin from UVB rays, which affect the epidermis creating tanning and sunburn as well as to protect from UVA rays which penetrate further into the dermis, causing skin damage such as wrinkles. UV damage can lead to the development of skin cancer. ■ Focus on clean and green products that are good for you and good for the environment Consumers’ focus on clean, green and
9000 6750 4500 2250 0
0 Figure 1: Concentration curve.
sustainability cuts across all personal care market segments. Sun care is no exception as natural products are perceived as safer for people and safer for the environment. Consumers are familiar with natural additives such as clays which can boost the efficacy of mineral and safe organic UV filters. ■ Focus on multi-functionality, sensory experiences, and personalisation Consumers want innovative textures such as mousses, whips, jellies, and creams-to-powder with elegant application. Multifunctional hybrid
Increasing Viscosity
Increasing Thixotropy Increasing Stability
sun care products are suitable for daily use and have become part of a regular health and beauty skin care regimen. Sun care products are available in a variety
of forms. Traditional water in oil products can come in the form of sprays, balms, lotions and creams. These generally have good water resistance. Stick products are typically anhydrous and can be very efficient given that most UV filters need to be dissolved in oils, Clear sprays offer the benefit convenient application and quick drying formulas. The personal care industry sector
is experiencing growth in Oil in Water formulations. These Oil in Water formulations can be challenging to achieve high SPF; however, they do offer the benefits of feeling lighter than Water in Oil formulations and providing better hydrating properties to satisfy consumer needs for better moisturisers and anti-ageing products.
Figure 2: Spray formulation images. 0% Bentone Gel® TN V
PERSONAL CARE May 2021 1% Bentone Gel® TN V 3% Bentone Gel® TN V 5% Bentone Gel® TN V 8% Bentone Gel® TN V
Why natural clays are effective Natural clay-based additives help formulators address these trends by improving sensorial experiences in a variety of ways by: ■ Enabling effective suspension of organic and inorganic sunscreen actives as well as effect pigments ■ Boosting SPF for greater skin protection in both organic and inorganic sunscreen formulas ■ Improving water resistance for beach and sports products ■ Meeting market trends for natural and clean ingredients; and, ■ Creating sensorial experiences by enabling a
www.personalcaremagazine.com 4 8 Concentration of clay in water Bentonite ■
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate ■ Bentone Hydroclay 550 ■ Bentone Hydroclay 900 ■ Bentone Hydroclay 1100 ■ Bentone Hydroclay 2000 ■
12 16
Viscosity Pa.s
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