48 TEXTURES
FORMULATION 2: FORMULATION OF MAKEUP REMOVAL WITH 5% OIL GEL EMULSIFIER. Phase
Ingredients (INCI) A B
Oil-Gel Emulsifier Glycerin
Mackaderm LIA (Isoamyl Laurate)
Mackaderm® DCC1 (Dicaprylyl Carbonate) Sweet Almond Oil
C
Mackaderm® OS1 (Ethylhexyl Stearate) Deionised Water
Preservative-free - Viscosity: 35,000-45,000 cps (S7 , 10 rpm)
demand for novel textures and products that stretch the sensory boundaries and deliver intensive nourishment and protection benefits to the skin, hair and scalp.
Mechanism & properties Solvay’s innovative Oil Gel Emulsifier technology is easy to use and contains highly efficient emulsifiers and stabilisers to create oil-in-polyol emulsions with a translucent or transparent, gel-like appearance. With a high internal oil phase, it can create a transparent and rich body of product that offers the illusion of “oil-thickening” (Fig 1). In reality, the gel-thickening is contributed purely by the high internal phase (typically > 60%). The stability is achieved by the cetyl betaine and hydroxypropyl guar in the emulsifier. Then, during use, the oil gels turn into an oil or a milk depending on whether they are used in a leave-in or rinse-off application. Two different solvent-type versions of Oil
Gel Emulsifier technology are available: glycerine and propylene glycol. Oil Gel Emulsifier is highly efficient, with recommended use at 3% to 5% in the formulation. Different types of oils may make different impacts on the final viscosity and stability of the formulation. Due to the specific composition of the Oil Gel Emulsifier’s structure and the resulting high internal oil phase, the formulator can achieve a preservative-free product with high suspension ability. The clarity of the final product is achieved by refractive index (RI) matching of the internal and external phases. The selection choice and inclusion of glycerine or
SOLVAY’S OIL GEL FORMULATION WITH OIL GEL EMULSIFIER
propylene glycol solvent in the Oil Gel Emulsifier cleverly eases the RI matching process.
Building viscosity In general, the viscosity achieved is proportional to the level of internal phase (oil). Oils with a refractive index close to glycerine (chosen external phase), e.g. Mineral Oil, produce the highest viscosities (Glycerine RI=~1.473, Mineral Oil RI=~1.461). With 5% of Oil Gel Emulsifier and 80% Mineral Oil, a viscosity of 157,000 cps is attained. In contrast, under the same conditions, 80% of octyl palmitate yields a viscosity of 46,000 cps.
Achieving clarity Water is generally required to achieve transparency, if the oil used has an RI lower than that of glycerine/sorbitol. By adding water, the viscosity of the final emulsion decreases. The amount of water required needs to be optimised by repeated trials on each type of specific oil combination. If the oils have an RI that is higher than glycerine/sorbitol, they will need to be diluted with oils of a lower RI to bring them closer to the external phase.
Compatibility with oils Ester oils and mineral oils are highly compatible with the Oil Gel Emulsifier. Triglycerides (natural oils), silicones and silicone derivatives are found to be the least compatible. It is possible to use combinations of highly compatible oils and least compatible oils to achieve the targeted clarity, viscosity and stability (Table 1).
COMMERCIAL FACIAL CLEANSING OIL
Figure 3: An example of the suspension ability of formulated oil gel in suspending luffa fibre.
Non-sensitising, non-irritating formulas A 50-person panel, Occlusive Patch test of undiluted finished formula (containing 5% Oil Gel Emulsifier, 20% Glycerine, 73.5% of Mineral Oil, and 1.4% Phenoxyethanol, Decylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol as preservatives) was done to assess non-sensitising and non-irritating characteristics. The Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT) mildness results confirm the suitability of the Oil Gel Emulsifier’s use into leave-on products, as well as mildness-specific applications, such as baby oil cleansing, scalp cleansing and formulas for sensitive skin. As a makeup remover or facial cleanser for dry skin, this one-step cleansing eliminates the need for a strong surfactant cleansing system, making it an ideal routine to use on sensitive skin.
Preservative-free formulas possible With a high internal oil phase, creating preservative- free products is possible using the Oil Gel Emulsifier. The following formula (Formula 1) is an example of oil gel product that passes the Anti- Microbial Effectiveness Test (USP40, 2017).
Figure 4: No-drip, No-mess Application Excellent Cleansing & Rinsability. PERSONAL CARE May 2021
Superior suspension ability of oil gels made with oil gel emulsifier Products formulated with the Oil Gel Emulsifier can deliver high yield stress value, enabling suspension and stabilisation of beads and air bubbles. The yield stress value is specific to each formula’s composition. The interesting characteristic of high yield stress can enable the creation of aesthetically, visually attractive
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% w/w 5.0
20.0 6.0 5.0 7.0
53.3 3.7
Description This cleansing gel
formulation contains >70% oils, with a transparent
appearance made possible with Oil Gel Emulsifier. It is convenient to use and leaves behind skin that feels moisturized yet clean.
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