54 WAXES & BUTTERS
fruit that is used in different variations around the globe. Aside from its ability to be used in food and beverage products, the açai fruit also offers many beneficial factors into the personal care industry. Açai oil shows extensive therapeutic benefits due to its composition of oleic acid, linoleic acid, and palmitoleic acids. The fatty acids of this food-grade oil have been part of studies testing its antioxidant composition as well to evaluate short- and long-term stability when focusing on lipid oxidation and total soluble phenolic content.6 Though still a relatively new choice to other natural, plant-based oils, açai has shown to be a unique ingredient to cosmetic applications and other personal care formulations due to its high phenolic content and sensory characteristics.6
Coconut oil Coconut oil offers many benefits to our skin and is a safe and effective option compared to other nature-based oils. Integrating coconut oil into moisturisers has shown to be an effective alternative when combating dry skin, especially during winter months.7
Aside from its softening
and moisturising benefits, coconut oil has also shown to soothe skin that suffers from disorders and diseases, such as eczema and psoriasis.8 Due to its components of lauric acid, this fatty acid offers anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that penetrates the skin to support hydration and lessen skin irritation and infection.7
Waxes Depending on climates, whether during the colder or warmer seasons, changes in the environment can directly affect the skin. Using a moisturiser that has a wax base allows for an inactive layer to form over the skin to block and preserve the skin from experiencing a loss of moisture.9
Dry, cracked skin is a common
concern during the colder months which creates a rough and raw skin surface. In this weakened skin state, repairing the surface will take some time, and allowing the skin to properly heal through a protective barrier is most important. Occlusives are a key ingredient when trying
to combat dry skin because of their ability to seal in moisture from the outside environment. Creating this barrier between the environment and the skin surface allows for hydration to be locked in and protected. Popular and economical waxes such as paraffin wax and petrolatum wax offer good structuring and effective moisturising abilities. Jarchem offers high quality, high melt point, and economically friendly paraffin, microcrystalline, and petrolatum waxes to build consistent structures and textures. Regarding naturally derived waxes, Jarchem
offers vegetable alternatives to lanolin, lanolin oil, and lanolin wax, helping to claim cruelty- free and offering water-resistant properties. The spider graph in Figure 2, compares Jarchem vegetable lanolin, Vegecare™ L, to regular animal-derived lanolin in 5 different parameters: spreadability, tackiness, shine, thickness, and filamentous. Each parameter
PERSONAL CARE May 2021
FORMULATION 2: FORMULATION COMPONENTS OF MASCNE BALM (FORMULA NO. JY02032). Phase A
Ingredients
Ceraphor™ P6216 Ceraphor™ PJ600
Vegecare™ L
Vegecare™ LW Jarplex™ IPS
B
Jarplex™ CU-WD Jarplex™ SB35 Jarxotic™ PF15 Jarxotic™ AC15 Jarxotic™ WC-M
Jarplex™ SB-60DP Jarxotic™ GC-NS Jarcol™ I-20CG Jarcol™ H2280
INCI Paraffin Petrolatum
Glyceryl rosinate (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsa- ponifiables
Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Isopropyl Shea Butterate Cupuaçu Butter Glycerides
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Passion Fruit Oil
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil Montmorillonite
Distarch Phosphate (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Illite (and) Montmorillonite (and) Kaolin Octyldodecanol Behenyl Alcohol
is measured on a 0 to 10 scale, 10 being the highest capability. The result shows that the vegetable lanolin has comparable properties to animal lanolin, making it a great naturally derived alternative. A formulation that encompasses the
use of vegetable lanolin and is current to today’s needs is the Mascne Balm (Formula No. JY02032) which allows for heightened hydration to combat the on-going troubles of acne due to the consistent wearing of masks (Formulation 2). With the contribution and addition of various butter products, such as Isopropyl Shea Butterate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, and Cupua-u Butter Glycerides, they allow the skin to feel soothed and mellowed due to irritation from a face mask. The Ceraphor™ PJ600, a high purity petrolatum, increases spreadability of the formula with only 0.2%. Ceraphor™ P6216 paraffin wax combined with Vegecare™ L and LW provides great structure to form the balm together.
Conclusion Keeping our skin moisturised is one of the most important steps to any daily skin care routine. Whether it be our face or body, keeping the skin hydrated and protected from the environments we are in are crucial when promoting soft and healthy skin. In choosing different emollients and occlusives, it all depends on the properties of ingredients that formulators are looking for when creating their applications. Shea butter is recognised as a well-acknowledged emollient that offers a wide range of benefits from demonstrating skin aesthetics and high-performance skin protection. Shea oils and shea derivatives promote versatile application options. Naturally derived lanolin alternative vegetable wax is a good occlusive that promotes better branding opportunities than lanolin, due to its cruelty-free stance. Knowing the different options when formulating moisturisers, will allow for wider versatility within the product and will broaden the reach of consumers.
PC
% w/w 15.0 0.2
15.0
9.0 9.0
18.5 9.0 1.5 1.5
2.0 2.0 2.0
12.0 3.3
References 1 U.S.: usage frequency of moisturizers, creams and lotions for the face 2020 [Internet]. Statista. Simmons National Consumer Survey; 2020. Available from:
https://www.statista.com/ statistics/276431/us-households-usage- frequency-of-moisturizers-creams-and- lotions-for-the-face/
2 Moisturizers: Do they work? [Internet]. Harvard Health. Available from:
https://www.health.
harvard.edu/staying-healthy/moisturizers-do- they-work
3 Deckner G. Natural Based Emollients [Internet]. 2018. Available from: https://knowledge.
ulprospector.com/3779/pcc-natural-based- emollients/
4 Moisturizers: Options for softer skin [Internet]. Mayo Clinic. Mayo Foundation for Medical Education and Research; 2019. Available from:
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases- conditions/dry-skin/in-depth/moisturizers/ art-20044232
5 About [Internet]. RSPO. [cited 2021Jan8]. Available from:
https://www.rspo.org/ about#who-we-are
6 Pacheco-Palencia LA, Martens-Talcott S, Talcott ST. Chemical Composition, Antioxidant Properties, and Thermal Stability of a Phytochemical Enriched Oil from Ac¸ai (Euterpe oleracea Mart.). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2008Jun4;56:4631–6.
7 Lin T-K, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils [Internet]. MDPI. Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute; 2017 [cited 2021Jan8]. Available from: https://doi. org/10.3390/ijms19010070
8 Moisturizing for Eczema [Internet]. National Eczema Association. Available from: https://
nationaleczema.org/eczema/treatment/ moisturizing/
9 Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review [Internet]. Clinical medicine & research. Marshfield Clinic; 2017. Available from:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ pmc/articles/PMC5849435/
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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