30 SUN CARE
products for body and face have additional claims like moisturising, full light protection including the protection against infrared (IR), visible and blue (VIS) light, anti-ageing, and anti-pollution, to name a few. Such ingredients providing these benefits need also be carefully incorporated into the sunscreen formulation. As described above to formulate a sunscreen
product is quite complex. The most common product form of sunscreen products are O/W- Emulsions. The oil phase of O/W-emulsions is limited to approx. 35 - 40%. The majority of organic UV filters are lipophilic and have to be incorporated in the oil phase of the emulsion. They are either liquid or come in an oil soluble crystalline form. To achieve high SPFs and a high UVA protection, it is often necessary to use several crystalline UV-filters in high dosages in one formulation. In this case it is essential that the formulation contains sufficient solvents like liquid oil- soluble UV-filters and some emollients to keep the crystalline filters solubilised and prevent them from recrystallisation. The development and manufacture of
sunscreen products could be simplified by using well-balanced and ready-to-use UV filter blends. The UV filter blend described in this article is an oil soluble, clear, yellow to dark yellow viscous liquid UV mixture of carefully selected UV filters that uniformly absorb solar radiation ranging from 300 to 360nm (Fig 1). Therefore, it provides optimal protection against harmful UVA and UVB rays and makes the use of additional UV filters unnecessary. It simplifies the development and manufacture of sunscreen products with high sun protection factors.
The liquid blend is composed in a way that
crystalline UV filters stay solubilised down to -20°C, which makes it also suitable for cold/ cold processes. That saves time and energy in the manufacturing process and avoids the handling of powdered UV filters.
Ingredients INCI
TABLE 1: DIFFERENT USE LEVELS OF NEOHELIOPAN® FLAT IN A O/W SUNSCREEN FORMULA – EXPECTED SPF VS. IN VITRO SPF INCLUDING THE DATA ABOUT UVA PF AFTER IRRADIATION AND CRITICAL WAVELENGTH.
Formula
% of Neo Heliopan® Flat Expected SPF In Vitro SPF4
UVA PF after irradiation4 Critical wavelength in nm4
A
5.00% 5-10 12 6
373 B
10.00% 10-20 33 11
375 C
15.00% 15-30 42 15
375 4: Based on 1.3 mg/cm2 (ISO 24443:2012 Determination of Sunscreen UVA Photoprotection in vitro
2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
6% Neo Heliopan® Flat■ 10% Neo Heliopan® Flat■ 15% Neo Heliopan® Flat■ 25% Neo Heliopan® Flat■ 30% Neo Heliopan® Flat■
D
25.00% 30-50 79 28
378 E
30.00% 50-50+ >100 36
379
290 300 310 320
330 340 350 360 370 380 390 400 410 420 430 440 Wavelength in nm
Figure 2: Absorbance Curve NeoHeliopan® Flat The simple adjustment of the use level
enables the development and manufacture of sunscreen products, such as lotions, creams, sprays and oils with sun protection factors from 6 to 50+ without the need to add additional UV filters. Table 1 and Figure 2 show an O/W sunscreen formula with different concentration levels of the UV-blend and the measured in vitro SPF4
.
Sensorial qualities Apart from the selection of UV filters, the textures and the sensorial sensation of a sun care product
FORMULATION 1: EASY AS WINKING!; BODY SUN PROTECTION LOTION, SPF 50+, UVA/UVB BALANCED Phase
A SymEffect™ Varytex (342911)1
NeoHeliopan® Flat (294843) 1 SymDecanox™ HA (972276) 1
Edeta® BD2
Seychelles (258050) 1 Sensocel® 103
B
Cosphaderm® X Soft4 Aqua/Water dest. Avicel® PC 6115
Bentone Hydroclay™ 20006 Glycerin 99.5%
SymReboot™ L19 (846066) 1 Hydrolite® 5 green (996442) 1 SymOcide® PH (973949) 1 Dragosine® (844033) 1
C Citric Acid 10% Sol.
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Triisononanoin, Diisopropyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Cetearyl Nonanoate, Stearyl Caprylate
Homosalate, Octocrylene, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol, Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone Disodium EDTA Parfum
Cellulose
Xanthan Gum Aqua
Microcrystalline cellulose Hectorite Glycerin
Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment Pentylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Aqua Carnosine
Aqua, Citric Acid Suppliers: 1. Symrise 2. BASF 3. CFF GmbH & Co KG 4. Cosphatec GmbH 5. FMC Biopolymer 6. Elementis
play an important role for the effectiveness of a sun care product. An even and homogenous distribution on the
skin is a pre-requisite for sufficient protection. One should also not underestimate the impact of the sensorial sensation when applying the product. The readiness of consumers to apply a sun care product in the required frequency may be much higher, when the product is easy to apply and leaves a nice and non-sticky skin feel. SymEffectTM
Varytex is a well-balanced
selection of oil components and an effective O/W emulsifier. The liquid O/W emulsion base
% w/w 10.0
30.0 1.00
0.10 0.50 2.00 0.30
49.45 0.80 0.80 1.00 0.50 1.50 1.45
0.20 0.40
Procedure: Phase A: Premix phase A. Phase B: Disperse Avicel PC 611 and Bentone Hydroclay 2000 in water with an Ultra-Turrax Stirrer at 6.000rpm for 7 minutes. Add all remain ingredients to the water phase. Add phase B to phase A and start to homogenize. (E.g. 300g Beaker Trial: Rpm 15.000 for 3 minutes). Phase C: While homogenizing add phase C to phase A/B. Final pH required 5.90-6.10.
PERSONAL CARE May 2021
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Absorbance
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