TEXTURES
products. With the clarity of the oil-gel product, beads and botanical matter (e.g. luffa, fibre, petals) as in Figure 3 may be included to stimulate the consumer’s senses and imagination.
General formulation guidelines The amount of total oil recommended is approximately between 60% and 80%. The recommended usage level of Oil Gel
Emulsifier is 3% to 5%. The amount of external phase solvent is
typically = 100% - Oil% - % Oil Gel Emulsifier. Sorbitol (70% solution) is the best solvent/
filler to use for formulation stability. Glycerine may also be used in some cases. It is recommended to pre-mix Oil Gel
Emulsifier with the external phase, prior to emulsification. Heat up the two phases to around 60°C.
Emulsify by gradually adding oil phase to the solvent phase (solvent + Oil Gel Emulsifier). Water (2% to 5% as a guide) is generally
necessary to adjust or improve the transparency of the oil gel, except when using only Mineral Oil. Different types or combinations of oils would require different amounts of water for transparency. The amount of water required needs to be optimised by repeated trials on each type or specific oil compositions. The type of oil/s used may impact the
stability and transparency of the final product. Propeller-type mixer is recommended for
processing.
Formulating with oil gel emulsifier Skin care uses We tested a formula for a makeup removal gel (Formulation 2) against a market benchmark oil cleanser for ease-of-use (Fig 4) and cleansing capability on waterproof mascara. Compared to the market benchmark, Solvay’s
clear makeup removal gel (with the Oil Gel Emulsifier) exhibits better rheology control with no messy drip-off, minimising unnecessary makeup remover waste while creating the consumer perception of a denser, richer and more premium product. On rubbing, the gel immediately transforms into an oil texture. In the mascara removal test (Fig 5), the use of the oil gel effectively dissolves the mascara, manifests better rinsability with water, and allows more complete cleansing versus the benchmark. On drying, the skin feels smooth, unlike the dry feel of the benchmark. Outside of makeup and facial (for dry or
0.00: [Re30]0.00 0.00: [Re30]0.00 0.00: [Re29]0.00 0.00: [Re29]0.00 0.00: [Re28]0.00 0.00: [Re28]0.00 0.00: [Re27]0.00
Figure 5: Mascara Removal test
sensitive skin) cleansing oil gels, the oil gel concept can also be extended to body/shower oils, massage and baby oil gels. The intrinsic mildness of an oil-gel formula also makes it suitable for leave-on, anti-ageing, beauty oil gels. A formulated oil gel product containing the Oil
Gel Emulsifier was subject to a Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) test against a commercial makeup removal oil. The product formulated with Oil Gel Emulsifier vastly improved TEWL versus the benchmark (Fig 6). This study supports the
5 minutes ■ 2 hours ■ 0.31
-0.07
formula’s mildness on skin, making this Oil Gel Emulsifier technology highly suitable for use on skin that has been overly cleansed.
-1.94 Oil Gel with Oil Gel Emulsifier (Sc-17-099) Figure 6: Trans-Epidermal Water Loss data.
www.personalcaremagazine.com -0.87 Commercial Make-up Remover Oil
Scalp and hair care uses Pre-Wash Nourishing Concentrate The first concept routine below meets expectations in terms of new sensory gestures. Solvay has reinvented the oil rituals of Indian women with a Pre-Wash Nourishing Concentrate (Formulation 3). In this routine, the Pre-Wash Nourishing Concentrate is applied to wet hair without a need for rinsing, followed by shampoo to create luxurious, creamy and abundant foam. The consumer then rinses, dries and styles the hair. Compared to the market benchmark’s pre-wash product, Solvay’s formula delivers greater foam characteristics, while making the hair look cleaner, lighter and shinier without feeling weighed down (Fig 7). Crucially, in this Pre-Wash Nourishing Concentrate routine, the hair does not need rinsing before shampooing, which can cut down 30% to 50% of water usage compared to a traditional shampoo-conditioner routine. By skipping the conditioner step, this refreshing pre-wash routine can also avoid
May 2021 PERSONAL CARE Rub-in 20 circles Upon application on skin with water-proof mascara OIL GEL EMULSIFIER CLEANSING OIL GEL COMMERCIAL OIL CLEANSER
49
Start Rinsing
After Rinsing
Avergae Difference Wt. g/m(2)/h
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