SKIN MICROBIOME
Soothing scalp active is mild to microbiota
Amandine Werle – Clariant Active Ingredients, France
Increasing pollution levels, climate change, and stress are known to affect our skin and cause sensitive skin reactions.1 affect our scalp,2
a higher density of follicles and sebaceous glands than can be found on other parts of the body.3
large amounts of sebum,3 But they also a specific type of skin with Water
Sebaceous glands, which produce are important
for the maintenance of epidermal barrier integrity. They carry antioxidants to the skin surface,4
solar irradiation. But when these glands are stimulated by environmental factors, they over-produce sebum, which can cause irritations,5
leading to itching, which in turn
causes squames and additional irritation reactions, creating a vicious circle. For the 40% of the population suffering from
scalp sensitivity, quality of life can be impacted, with scalp sensitivity triggering psychological stress responsible for the loss of self-esteem and confidence.6
These consumers search for efficient
treatments to relieve the symptoms. They look for products with anti-irritants, sebum control, or anti-dandruff properties amongst others. But when the production of sebum and squames is modified, this creates a change in the source of food used by the commensal micro-organisms that compose our scalp’s microbiota. Indeed, scalp has its own microbiota which play a role in its homeostasis and protection. The bacterial microbiota present a large diversity with the most abundant bacteria being Cutibacterium spp. and Staphylococcus spp.7
The balance between these communities is
critical to scalp health. While mild sensitive scalp is not considered to be pathological, it is important to respect the scalp’s microbiota balance in order not to generate new scalp issues. In addition to looking for efficient scalp soothing
products that would respect their microbiota, consumers are also increasingly taking into consideration the sourcing of the products they buy. Green and sustainable ingredients go hand in hand with an image of safety and quality. And in a world where it is now obvious that mistreating biodiversity can lead to damaging consequences, reducing the amount of natural resources used and looking for local ones can bring additional value to the products. To soothe sensitive scalps while being
respectful of the microbiota and addressing the consumers’ expectations, Clariant Active Ingredients developed a new active ingredient sustainably sourced from apple stem cell
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nutrients for the micro-organisms composing the microbiota,3
the sebum they produce is a source of and give protection against
Sodium Benzoate EDTA
Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Citric Acid
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate Water, Cocoyl Methyl Glucamide
Water, Glycol Stearate, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine Active ingredient
Buffer solution (Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate) Sodium Chloride Fragrance
extract. Through clinical and in vitro studies, we demonstrated this extract can efficiently control the biological mechanisms leading to sensitive scalp and reduce the visible markers associated to scalp sensitivity such as redness and squames. In addition, we also demonstrated this active ingredient was mild to the microbiota and did not modify the balance of live bacteria on the scalp.
Apple stem cells technology Plants are a rich source of phytochemicals. But as the request for natural ingredients keeps increasing, so does the need to protect natural supply. Plant stem cell technology allows the sustainable production of specific compounds derived from plants, as only a small amount of plant is required to collect stem cells and start the culture. Thanks to this technology, access to biodiversity is protected and, in the case of food-origin raw material, the process does not compete with the food industry. In addition, extract variability is strictly monitored thanks to controlled conditions ensuring ingredient quality. Carbon footprint is largely reduced as the process is done in one place, also facilitating traceability and supply chain management. Apples have long been known for their
health benefits, particularly as they are one of the most common fruit crops. Over 7,500 varieties of apples have been identified throughout the world. Rich in minerals and fibres, they also contain quercetin, a powerful antioxidant. They are also known to have high
TABLE 1: DETAILS OF THE FORMULATIONS USED IN THE CLINICAL TRIAL. Ingredients
Quantity (%) Active formula
q.s.
0.45 0.05 7.00
0.20
0.001 28.50 2.00 1.30
2.00 0.20 1.50
0.20 Quantity (%)
placebo formula q.s.
0.45 0.05 7.00
0.20
0.001 28.50 2.00 1.30 –
0.20 1.50
0.20
amounts of bioflavonoids, molecules with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. For this reason, it can be an interesting source of active molecules for the cosmetic industry. Applied to an apple of the “Fuji” variety
under specific conditions, the plant stem cell technology made it possible to produce an extract rich in phloridzin, a molecule from the flavonoid family known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-lipogenesis and barrier improvement properties.8 To produce the active ingredient, apples
(Malus domestica) from the “Fuji apple” cultivar were commercially purchased. The fruits were disinfected. All trace of disinfectant was removed by thorough washing with sterilised water. The disinfected fruits were then cut in small pieces of 1 by 1 cm and placed in a specific culture medium to induce the production of callus, which appeared after 2 to 3 weeks. The calluses were then cultured during 2 to 4 weeks to increase the production of cells, which were then placed in a suspension cell culture. The active ingredient was obtained after extraction with hot water and filtration of the cell culture.
Clinical study protocol The efficacy of the active ingredient was studied in a double-blind placebo controlled clinical trial involving volunteers presenting sensitive scalps with discomfort and/or itching. 75% of the volunteers enrolled declared having dandruff. All the subjects participating in the study gave their
May 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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