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54 EYE AREA CARE


The under-eye area: one of our greatest challenges


Harald van der Hoeven, Dr. Heiko Prade - CLR Berlin, Germany


Dark circles and puffiness make people look tired and older, and can have a significant impact on quality of life. Men and women are equally affected and, although ageing plays a causative role, these phenomena are seen in people of all ages. Different aspects which are unique for the


so-called periorbital skin play central roles in the development and persistence of dark circles and puffiness. Ethnicity is another important factor. The complexity of the problems needs to be fully appreciated in order to provide satisfactory solutions for all types of skin. The main dermatological and cellular events are mentioned and shortly explained below.


Skin translucency The skin under and around the eyes is particularly thin and translucent, and ageing leads to further thinning of the skin. Under and in the skin under the eyes, we find a vast network of capillary blood vessels. As a consequence, thinning of skin leads to a darkened appearance – a factor that plays an important role in the appearance of dark circles, especially for Caucasians.


Skin laxity During ageing, skin becomes lax, and gravity will pull the skin of the lower eyelids down, leading to a shadowing effect, another contributor to the appearance of dark circles.


Pigmentation Damage caused by UV light can lead to hyperpigmentation. Especially people with a higher skin phototype often show a phenomenon


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no haeme 6h haeme 48h haeme


Figure 1: HB Complex promotes the expression of HO-1, despite prolonged exposure to haeme.


PERSONAL CARE March 2021


called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This can play a prominent role in the appearance of dark circles.


Cutaneous lymphatic system The most important function of the lymph vessels is to maintain a balance in fluid, macromolecules and oncotic pressure in the extracellular space of our body. They drain excess tissue fluid back to the blood circulation. The lymphatic vessels become reduced in number and increasingly hyperpermeable during the ageing process as well as consequential to inflammatory processes. This results in oedema of the lower eyelid, an accumulation of fluid. This is the main cause of eye puffiness. This fluid often takes on a purplish colour and can significantly influence the colour of skin under the eyes as well.


Haemocongestion Haemocongestion, where blood flow is reduced to zero, is a frequent phenomenon in skin under the eyes. Oxygenated haemoglobin has a reddish colour and produces a pinkish tint in the skin. In contrast, deoxygenated haemoglobin has a purplish colour and produces a tint which is more bluish. Haemocongestion is associated with a large presence of deoxygenated haemoglobin and strongly contributes to the appearance of dark circles.


Downstream of haemocongestion: haeme Consequential to haemocongestion, but also to inflammatory and ageing processes, vascular permeability is increased. In the dermis the leaked


Control ■ 1.0% HB Complex ■


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Control 0.5% HB Complex Figure 2: HB Complex promotes autophagy. www.personalcaremagazine.com 1.0%


red blood cells burst, releasing haemoglobin. The haemoglobin rapidly releases its haeme group. The colour of haeme is very dark and can significantly contribute to the appearance of dark circles. Additionally, haeme induces a multitude of deleterious reactions in the dermis, many of which are relevant for the formation and persistence of dark circles. Haeme can cause cell damage, which is


especially relevant for epithelial cells of both the cutaneous blood microvasculature and the lymph vessels. Haeme induces oxidative stress, the breakdown of the extracellular matrix in the dermis (collagens, elastin, etc.) and stands at the beginning of inflammatory processes, supporting the pathophysiology of the formation of dark circles.


The inflammatory processes initiated by haeme


result in a further increase in the permeability of both blood and lymph vessels. Haeme is therefore an essential factor in fighting dark circles, both of the ageing-related and the acute type, the one which can change in appearance from day to day. CLR Berlin has developed JuvenEye CLR™


(“HB Complex”, INCI: Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract, Hieracium Pilosella (Hawkweed) Extract) which was designed to improve the skin of the under-eye area, addressing all above-described features.


Efficacy studies – in vitro assays Haeme and HO-1 expression Haeme is broken down by Haeme Oxygenase (HO-1). Inducing HO-1 in keratinocytes is an interesting approach toward accelerating the breakdown of haeme. Haeme is pro-oxidative


HO-1 expression (%)


LC3B production (%)


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