34 HAIR STYLING


appearance, something which has become very popular in the past few years. When waxes are used as styling actives,


consumers generally achieve all day hold. Waxes also help to soften hair for very natural looking hair styles, without a glued or concrete look. Traditionally beeswax and waxes such as microcrystalline and ozokerite have been used. Univar Solutions offers a full product portfolio of natural and synthetic waxes from Poth Hille, which can be used in various styling applications as creams or waxes, helping to create the best hair styles for all hair types. Social media plays a key role in consumer


perception of trends and popular styles stemming from brand content and styling influencers. Brands are taking advantage of this platform by proposing digital tools to guide customers to specific styling trends or styling products. Influencers, consumers and brands alike post tutorials and videos showing how to create specific hairstyles. Even hair professionals use digital tools to guide customers to get their ultimate stand out style. Safety also remains a key driver and today, most beauty and personal care brands and products are making clean beauty claims. Hair styling products are no exception as consumers are equally conscious about reading their INCI lists. Natural and clean beauty developments are shaping the beauty landscape as consumers become more aware of the impact that their demand for natural ingredients has on the planet and are seeking ways to reduce their carbon footprint. In the hair styling segments, innovative


developments are helping brands respond to the needs and demands of consumers. New natural sourced ingredients are used in hair sprays, gels, waxes and creams and sustainable, bio derived ingredients are on the rise, which typically have a lower impact on the planet. Nevertheless, consumers still expect their styling products to be easy to use and highly effective, which means easy to apply, highly manageable, fast drying or long-lasting with high humidity resistance. Past innovations such as heat protection and low flaking are also still in high demand.


% CURL RETENTION AFTER 8H AT 90% RH 120 100 80 300 60 40 20 0 1%PVP


Commercial Benchmark


5%PVP 1%


MaizeCare style


3%


MaizeCare style


5%


MaizeCare style


0


Control Wax


1%


MaizeCare Wax


Figure 3: Hair stiffness and curl retention studies for MaizeCare. PERSONAL CARE March 2021 www.personalcaremagazine.com 3%


MaizeCare Wax


Commercial Wax with


Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer


PVP


Compeitive Hydrolyzed Corn Strarch


100 50 200


Achieving the natural look As formulators contend with the demand for more natural styles and sustainable or clean ingredients, new product development challenges arise. Maintaining hold efficacy, drying time, humidity resistance or anticipating the interactions with new ingredients in the formulations requires a certain level of talent. Thus far, hair styling formulators had to choose between high performance or natural- based ingredients. When they opt for a formulation with natural ingredients, they are faced with poor performance in terms of humidity resistance, flaking or easy wash out. On the other hand, when they choose synthetic polymers, they cannot necessarily fulfil the consumer demand for the use of natural ingredients. Most often, natural based hair fixative


agents on the market usually provide poor styling benefits or the drying time is too long or washing and rinsing is difficult. These options generally do not form a flexible film on the hair and thus create a lot of flaking. Previously, the natural product formulation toolbox consisted of thickening agents like xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum in combination with shellac which acts as a film-forming agent. These polymers often have disadvantages: xanthan gum has a strong flaking effect; shellac can be difficult to wash off and dehydroxanthan gum has a low humidity resistance and thus less formulation flexibility. Most ‘must have’ styling properties such as


strong hold, humidity resistance and texture flexibility are usually difficult to achieve with natural polymers. A new innovative development from Dow is helping change that. Using Dow’s hydrolysed corn starch, formulators can now comply with both demands at the same time using one ingredient: a biopolymer that combines performance and natural sourcing. This new film-former fulfils the criteria for


naturally derived ingredients for cosmetics in accordance with the ISO 16128 standard as 100% of this ingredient is naturally sourced.


Dow developed a natural biopolymer with the same performance typically seen in synthetic polymers, such as a pleasant hair-feel, no flaking and improved humidity resistance. MaizeCare™ Style Polymer is a bio- based polymer, derived from corn that provides styling benefits in hair care formulations and performs as a styling aid and film-former to achieve superior stiffness with a soft touch. Hair stiffness performance in a styling gel is similar to PVP benchmarks, and it exhibits higher humidity resistance when compared to PVP. Additionally, this natural based styling


fixative achieves frizz control and style durability. In performance tests, the curl retention test showcases a similar efficiency to PVP benchmarks. On half head tests compared to top selling commercial benchmarks, the hydrolysed corn starch exhibits superior hold and better hair manageability, thus it can be used for all styling formulations types such as gels, waxes, lotions, creams, and sprays. In addition to its sustainability benefits, the film former’s technical benefits include a long- lasting and flexible hold, as well as humidity resistance. MaizeCare Style Polymer facilitates the development of hair care formulations with low flaking and low tackiness without any compromise on sensory.


Conclusion Univar Solutions, provides a beauty and personal care portfolio full of premier ingredients from industry leading supply partners. We know that 2021 will continue to present challenges, especially as consumer and regulatory demands are changing and continue to focus more on safe and health conscious products. Working with the right partner will ensure that you are best equipped to launch compliant, on-trend formulations, without compromising on quality or performance. Our team of experts will join you on the journey to grow your business, delivering support from concept to launch.


HIGH HUMIDITY CURL RETENTION (8 HOURS) HAIR STIFFNESS ANALYSIS BY DIA-STRON 100 91% 85% 92% 85% 88% 82% 400 500


PC


0 1%PVP


Commercial Benchmark


5%PVP 1%


MaizeCare style


3%


MaizeCare style


5%


MaizeCare style


% of Curl Retention


% of Curl Retention


Peak Force (gmf)


Softness as function of Polymer leading


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88