26 TESTING
Figure 7: Classifying dandruff in number and size.
impression of baldness. Hair thinning can be assessed by special dermatoscopes (trichoscopy) or by using the Visioscan camera and objectively measuring the thicknesses of single hair. Other sources also point to the scalp
microbiome being involved in hair loss by promoting inflammation. 16
Especially two
bacteria and their ratio play an important role: if the balance between Cutibacterium acnes (syn. Propionibacterium acnes) and Staphylococcus aureus shifts towards the latter, less inflammation will occur and hair loss is limited. The activity of the Cutibacterium acnes can be made visible and calculated by using special UV-wavelengths that will cause an autofluorescence of the porphyrins produced by the acne bacteria. The Visiopor® is a handy and efficient camera emitting UV-light of this specific wavelength onto a small area of the skin surface (6.4 mm x 8 mm) and recording the occurring fluorescence. The amount, area and intensity of these fluorescent spots can then be automatically calculated and compared over the treatment time. Besides optical analysis, also the measurement
of scalp stiffness can give interesting insights. It could be observed that balding men and women tend to have chronically tighter scalps than those without hair loss. Studies have been clearly identifying mechanical stress on the scalp as an active factor in androgenetic alopecia.17 Measurement of the rigidity (stiffness) of the scalp could therefore give additional information on the efficacy of tension-relieving methods. The Scalp Indentometer with a 1 mm diameter indenter can be used to show improvement in scalp rigidity. Microcirculation that has also been found to be can be easily determined by
involved in hair loss18 measuring the scalp temperature.
Completing the circle Is skin care the new hair care? Claims known in skin care for quite some time such as anti-ageing, pollution defense, exfoliating scrub, vitamin- infused, collagen boosting become increasingly
PERSONAL CARE March 2021
Figure 8: Fluorescence pictures from the scalp.
common in the hair care market as it continues to diversify beyond the standard shampoo, conditioner and styling aids categories.19 care the new skin care?20
Or is hair Our hair is as individual
as we are. The skin of the scalp is more permeable than the skin of our face. Personalised trends already known for a long time in skin care, are also gaining ground in hair care. The same measurement methods used in the
development and efficacy testing of hair care can be used in simplified forms at the various points of sale to lead the consumer through the jungle of products and find the individual suitable hair care range.
References 1 VelascoI MVR, et al: Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties, Braz. J. Pharm. Sci. 2009; 45 (1)
2
https://www.scielo.br/ scielo.php?script=sci_ arttext&pid=S1984-82502009000100019
3
https://de.movember.com/ 4 Braun N, Heinrich U. What Can Complex Dietary Supplements Do for Hair Loss and How Can It Be Validly Measured—A Review, July 2020:
https://www.mdpi.com/ 2076- 3417/10/14/4996/htm
5 Evans TA. Testing Tactics in Hair: Equipment—A ‘Buyer’s Guide, September 2020: https:// www.
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/ equipmentevaluation/Testing-Tactics-in-Hair-
EquipmentA-Buyers-Guide-572275781.html
6 Brand M, et al: Substantiating Claims for Hair Care Products:
https://www.sofw.com/ de/sofw-journal/archiv/archiv2/176-sofw- journal-6-2016
7 Beauty Tomorrow, March 2015: The chemical properties of hair:
https://beautytmr.medium. com/the-chemical-properties-of-hair- 955985908d05
8 Maibach HI, Patrick E. Session VI: Hair, sebaceous glands and nails. 7th International Symposium of Bioengineering and the Skin,1988.
9 La Mendola S, Rinaldi F, Salvadori MC, Clemente F. Competence and satisfaction: a study of the hair and shampoo of 1,000 users of a trichology service. 18th International IFSCC Congress, Venice, October 1994.
10 Top 10 global consumer concerns in haircare (2015) -
https://frattempo.co.uk/top-10-global- consumer-concerns-in-haircare
11 Piérard-Franchimont C , Piérard GE. Hair Weathering and Hair Capacitance Mapping: a Pilot Study, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2012;11:179-182.
PC
12 Sommer B, Overy DP, Kerr RG. Identification and characterization of lipases from Malassezia restricta, a causative agent of dandruff. FEMS Yeast Res 15 (2015).
13 Grimalt R. A Practical Guide to Scalp Disorders”. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings 2007; 12 (2): 10–14.
14 Ranganathan S, Mukhopadhyay T. Dandruff: The Most Commercially Exploited Skin Disease, Indian J. Dermatology 2010; 55 (2): 130-134
15 Orasan MS, et al. Hair loss and regeneration performed on animal models, Clujul Med. 2016; 89(3): 327–334,
16 Randall VA. Androgens are the main regulator of human hair growth. In: Camacho F, Randall VA, Price V, editors. Hair and its Disorders: Biology, Pathology and Management. London: Martin Dunitz; 2000; 121–136.
17 Schlegel P. Hair Protection, COSSMA 11, 2020: 24-27. 18 English RS jr. A hypothetical pathogenesis model for androgenic alopecia: clarifying the dihydrotestosterone paradox and rate-limiting recovery factors, ScienceDirect,Medical Hypotheses 2018; 111: 73-81.
19 Gerkowicz A. Videocapillaroscopic Alterations in Alopecia Areata, BioMed Research International, Volume 2013, Article ID 160203
20 Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine online, May 2020 - Is Skin Care the New Hair Care?
21 Marina Jagemann The Online Magazin for Anti- Aging and Aesthetic Medicine: https://www.
marinajagemann.com/mehr-haare-bitte/
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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