WAXES & BUTTERS
Massage cream 2372-2.06■ Body butter 2421-1.01■ Moisturising cream 2368-1.04■ Serum 2390-2.03 ■
Thickness Greasy afterfeel Soft afterfeel
10 8 6 4 2 0
Spreadability
43
Emulium® Dolcea MB■ Emulium® Delta MB ■ Thickness
Greasy afterfeel Soft afterfeel Softness
10 8 6 4 2 0
Spreadability
Softness
Tacky afterfeel Tacky afterfeel Film residue
Figure 2: Sensory profile of formulas containing this natural O/W emulsifier.
■ Interesterification At the same time, wax esters react to each other to form mixed esters. Interesterification between a liquid wax (jojoba wax) and a solid wax (sunflower seed wax, mimosa wax, beeswax…) creates new esters that combine the rigidity of the saturated carbon chain with the flexibility of the unsaturated one. These mixed esters show intermediate physico- chemical properties between solid and liquid waxes. Transforming the waxes improves their behaviour and functionality. These new properties include a better solubilisation in the lipid phase, amphiphilic behaviour, good moisturising properties and enhanced sensory attributes. ■ Water absorption capacity The reactions described above create a homogeneous soft wax butter. It has the ability
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
D0 D5 D10 D15
Figure 3: Sensory comparison of the same formula containing either Emulium® Dolcea MB or Emulium® Delta MB.
to absorb up to 4 times its weight in water and is central to the moisturising properties of the ingredients created with this technology.
An advanced natural emulsifier This expertise acquired over the years has therefore enabled Gattefossé to develop the most advanced and robust natural emulsifier based on functionalised waxes, Emulium® Dolcea MB. It is a PEG-free O/W emulsifier of 100% natural origin, easy to formulate and flexible which enables formulating from fluid textures to thick butters.
Effortless formulation Its composition has been finely tuned to provide the best performance/stability/sensory combination, while being in the form of pellets to facilitate its use in the lab and in production. This O/W emulsifier
shows high compatibility with cosmetic ingredients and provides excellent stability alongside natural gelling agents. It has been conceived to make it easy and quick for formulators to achieve stable, sensorial and efficient emulsions.
An extreme softness Featuring a strong sensory signature, this O/W emulsifier brings extreme softness to cosmetic emulsions. An expert sensory analysis panel has evaluated
four cosmetic products containing this O/W emulsifier, with different textures. Its sensory personality is characterised by an
extreme softness in particular on skin afterfeel. This softness can be attributed to the mixed esters of jojoba and sunflower which combine spreadability and body. This sensory panel has also evaluated two
formulas that only differ with the emulsifier used: either this natural O/W emulsifier or Emulium Delta MB, Gattefossé’s PEG-based emulsifier appraised for its sensoriality. The two formulas present the same sensory profile, characterised by a soft afterfeel.
Threshold value of ready biodegradability
Biodegradability This natural emulsifier has been developed to ensure excellent biodegradability. A biodegradability test has been conducted and results showed that 97% of this cream, in equivalent organic carbon, has been biodegraded after only 28 days. The biodegradable rate reaches 60% in the first 10 days of the test, meaning that it enables the creation of readily biodegradable formulas.
Conclusion With immediate and long-lasting moisturising capacity, this ingredient brings functionality and efficacy to a wide range of applications. COSMOS approved, it can be used in organically certified, vegan and readily biodegradable formulations.
D20 D25
Figure 4 : Results of the biodegradability test (OECD 301B) conducted on a formula containing 4% of this O/W emulsifier.
www.personalcaremagazine.com Greasiness Film residue Shine
Greasiness
PC
Reference 1 EP1933806, GATTEFOSSÉ SAS, Support comprising a wax derivative for making topical cosmetic formulations, filed on 10 September 2006
March 2021 PERSONAL CARE
Degradation (%)
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