20 ANALYSIS
Sustainable surfactants set to thrive
Pankaj Singh – Global Market Insights, India
The global personal care ingredients industry is changing robustly and creating a new playing field. Cosmetic preferences have transcended to green products, given that products with “green labels” have continued to prioritise natural ingredients. The use of biotechnology will enable the
cosmetic industry to streamline sustainable ingredients and reshape the concept of natural cosmetics. Indeed, consumers are on a quest for certified ingredients and sustainable packaging options. With Europe striving to become carbon neutral by 2050, trends and dynamics will witness a seismic shift in the landscape. Customers have exhibited profound
traction for a healthy skin surface showing a soft, smooth and firm appearance. Surfactants have become the go-to ingredient for the formulation of skin care cosmetics and boost supplier relationship management (SRM). Some of the features such as emulsifying, cleansing, moisturising and solubilising have put a premium on surfactants. From traditional cleansing to the trendiest
offerings, formulators are developing optimal products using a slew of surfactants for body care and body cleansing. Technological advancements will help customers stay a notch ahead in innovation. Eco-friendly surfactant-based products are
gaining ground as personal care companies and chemical suppliers gear to stay ahead of the competition. In terms of revenue, personal care ingredients will become a US$12 billion industry by 2024, projects Global Market Insights, Inc.
Navigating through “green surfactants” Lately, environmentally friendly surfactant molecules have been dubbed “green surfactants,” “renewable surfactants,” “oleochemical-based surfactants,” and “biosurfactants,” to name a few. Sustainable surfactants have become a buzz word on the heels of mounting environmental concerns and growing consumer awareness. Even though the growth of sustainable
surfactants remains bullish, conventional surfactants will remain in the mix in light of proven performance and low cost. Skin-compatible surfactants tend to act as an
emulsifier and stabilise the oil droplets and fine water in thin lotions and creams. It is worth noting that surfactants also leverage the fine dispersion of colour pigments in lipstick and makeup; disperse perfumes in aftershaves and hair lotions. One of the major properties of surfactant
PERSONAL CARE March 2021
molecules that makes them highly desirable in cosmetic ingredients is that they are compatible with both oil and water. Amid anionic surfactants being used mainly as the primary detergent in cosmetics to remove dirt and oil, amphoteric surfactants are giving tough competition to the former as the latter is less irritating. Besides, amphoterics have become instrumental in thickening a formula and having a positive influence on foam.
Tapping into offerings from betaines Betaines—a class of amphoteric—exhibit an exceptional skin mildness profile, good foam features and viscosity building properties. Unprecedented demand for surfactants providing efficiency in cosmetic formulations and mildness to skin has prompted ingredient distributors to develop cutting-edge technology. Increased safety, compatibility with an array of surfactant systems and favourable application parameters, including foam formation have made betaines a trendier surfactant. Inevitably, betaines have forayed into
a slew of end-use applications, such as baby shampoo, liquid soap, bubble baths, face cleansing, shaving cream and so on.
With hair and skin conditioning and foam boosting effects, cleansing effect, readily biodegradable and compatibility with nonionic surfactant and anionic cationic amphoteric, betaines have added value in the formulation as foam boosters, viscosity modifiers and co-surfactants. It is worth noting that the production
of long-lasting foam is seen as a sign of cleansing action and is related to the surfactant structure. Besides, the use of secondary surfactants tends to have a synergistic impact on foam stability, foaming and rheology building properties and enhances mildness of the formulation.
Conditioning ingredients: a unique family of product for hair care Conditioning ingredients—emollients and cationic surfactants—are at the forefront in hair care products. Emollients are said to be invaluable for imparting shine and boosting the way the surface of the skin and hair feel. Meanwhile, cationic surfactants are a high-end condition ingredient for hair care products. They are also sought-after as an effective mild cleanser in a conditioner and as film-forming conditioning agent.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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