50 SKIN CARE


Genderless cosmetics with gender-specific efficacy


Emina Besic Gyenge, Stefan Hettwer, Brigit Suter, Barbara Obermayer – RAHN AG, Switzerland


Besides obvious gender differences in terms of anatomy, there are also certain gender-related variations in skin physiology. Studies have shown that levels of skin parameters such as hydration, sebum, skin pigmentation, and thickness are in general higher in men while rates of transepidermal water loss are higher in women.1 Skin is individual, not only when it comes to


gender and age, but for each of us. Knowledge of physiological, chemical, and biophysical skin differences can help the cosmetic industry develop tailored cosmetic formulations. One non-gender- related common denominator that determines skin health, independent of gender, age, genetics or environment, is effective intracellular cleaning, the process known as autophagy. Intracellular accumulation of damaged


molecules, dysfunctional organelles and other impaired cellular components causes cellular ageing and dysfunction (garb’ageing). Keratinocytes and fibroblasts, the most important skin cells, lose their functional identity and this in turn is reflected in impairment of the skin barrier and a loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin. The maintenance of properly functioning autophagy in skin cells is therefore an effective strategy against garb’ageing. Chronological ageing and an unhealthy lifestyle are known factors that inhibit autophagy (Fig 1). The presence of intracellular waste changes the


structural organisation of the cells and it impedes cell signalling, transportation and metabolic


Autophagy Inhibitors


Chronological ageing Unhealthy life style


Nutrients Biological implications


Genomic instability Ageing


LC3A LC3A Cellular consequences


▲ Mitochondrial check point ▼ ▲ Energy supply▼


▲ Cellular function ▼ ▲ Cellular ageing ▼ ▲ Lifespan ▼


Figure 1: The basic elements of autophagy at a glance. Diagrammatic representation of the most important molecular pathways and factors that stimulate and inhibit autophagy.


PERSONAL CARE March 2021 LC3A LC3A LC3A LC3A LC3A Cellular waste Biological implications


Homeostasis Survival immunity Anti-Garb’Ageing strategy


Stimulators


Targeted nutrition (REFORCYL®-AION) Metabolic stress (starvation, infection, ROS) Physical exercise


functions. Impaired skin homeostasis, shortened cellular lifespan, senescence and an insufficient energy supply are only a few of the cellular consequences. It can thus be assumed that stimulation of autophagy would be an excellent means of slowing ageing and would help detox the skin. Stimulation of autophagy in general and in skin can be achieved by exposure to metabolic stress, such as starvation, infection or high ROS levels. Intermittent fasting has recently come to enjoy increasing popularity in the fitness, beauty and wellness world. Evidently, extended fasting will activate autophagy. Likewise, physical activity also counteracts garb’ageing – unsurprisingly, couch potatoes age faster than active individuals, at least at the cellular level. However, a much more suitable approach in terms of a cosmetic treatment would be of course to use an active ingredient that would trigger the cellular waste management process. Reforcyl®-Aion’s (INCI: Propanediol, Water,


Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract, Citric Acid) powerful ingredients (amino acids and saccharides - including sucrose and spermidine/ spermine) are able to induce autophagy, supply the cells with optimal nutrition and rejuvenate and detox cells from within. Furthermore, it ensures that the process runs smoothly. Thus, there is not only measurable alleviation of undesirable effects such as a weakened skin barrier, poor hydration, loss of firmness and elasticity, but the results are visibly perceptible. As a preventive measure, it is


ABSTRACT


Unisex was yesterday’s trend - genderless beauty is here to stay. The definition of gender has become very fluid. It now goes beyond simply ‘male’ and ‘female’, taking the form of a desire for acceptance and empowerment in one’s own person. Man, woman, transgender and those who fall under any other definitions of gender should be able not only to share fashion but also their lotions and potions. From the consumers’ point of view, this makes cosmetics more practical and sustainable. Nevertheless, genderless cosmetics should not be defined in terms of non-binary fragrances but rather by their mode of action, which should adapt to the respective needs of various skin types. However, where to start? Can genderless


skin care truly cater to the distinct needs of male and female skin? Are there differences between male and female skin? With this in view, our approach has


been to develop Reforcyl®-Aion, an active ingredient with the capability to spring clean skin cells, activating and rejuvenating them, improving overall skin appearance and positively influencing the personal perception of beauty. Reforcyl-Aion meets the individual needs of skin regardless of gender or age.


advisable to start using such cosmetic formulations at a younger age. Nevertheless, the older one gets, the more important it becomes to employ these. Cellular garbage hoarding increases significantly with advanced age, while at the same time cellular activity and autophagy processes decline, causing unwanted skin deterioration. Safe triggering of autophagy seems to be the ideal anti-ageing and anti-garb’ageing approach. Reforcyl®-Aion helps cells to remember how to let go of unnecessary ballast and - even better - it creatively reuses unwanted and burdensome cellular material.


Materials and methods Subjective perception and measured parameters Our in-vivo study was performed in accordance with the principles of good laboratory practice (GLP), good clinical practice (GCP) and in compliance with the quality assurance system requirements. The study was also conducted in


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