TESTING LENGTH/MM 1 2 3 4 5 6
Figure 6: Hair length/thickness measurements in mm with the Visioscan® VC 20plus. While the scalp condition can be assessed by
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probes such as TEWL measurement and sebum measurement directly on the scalp and skin surface moisture on the forehead close to the hairline, the extent of dandruff can be assessed either by expert rating, or, for more objective testing by imaging methods using the DandruffMeter. Dandruff flakes are sampled by the application of a defined combing procedure. The collected flakes will be distributed in a wide petri dish onto a dark background material that is then inserted into the DandruffMeter for analysis. Inside the device, circularly arranged LEDs will illuminate this sample homogeneously and in a standardised way. Straight above the illuminated sample, a high-resolution camera will take a picture. Dandruff will shine bright white against the dark background
and can be analysed and categorised in the device software for the amount and sizes of the dandruff accretions. Application of an anti-dandruff shampoo should shift the distribution from larger- sized categories to smaller-sized dandruff flakes.
Testing methods for hair loss Another wide-spread concern is hair loss. The causes for alopecia are attributed to numerous combined influences ranging from genetic predisposition, increased dehydrotestosterone production, mineral and vitamin deficiency, stress, toxins, colonisation with microorganisms to the way that the head is generally held as well as facial expression which are supposedly influencing muscle tension along the head. Different to other mammals that shed their fur
1.74 1.72 1.01 0.11 1.9 0.66 Min Gl 35 24 68 45 57 38
25 Max GL 189 153 187 80 216 108
seasonably, human hair undergoes unsynchronised growth cycles. 14
This irregular pattern is
characterised by hair in different growth stages at the same time, ideally 90% anagen (growth phase), 1–2% catagen (regression phase) and 8–9% telogen (resting phase).15
the anagen phase is shortened and the anagen- telogen rate may shift from 6:1 to 2:1.14
In androgenetic hair loss, The changes
from anagen to catagen to telogen and the ratio of the different hair growth stages can be assessed by trichography, either by microscopic determination of the hair roots of torn-out hair or by devices measuring hair growth within a certain time span after shaving like the Trichoscan® device. Often, at the same time the single hair is The combination of decreased hair
thinning.15 regrowth and thinner hair leads to the overall
www.personalcaremagazine.com
March 2021 PERSONAL CARE
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