52 SKIN CARE Female ■ Male ■ 60.00 40.00 * 20.00 0.00 -20.00 -40.00 -60.00 Desquamation TEWL Sebum Hydration
Figure 3: Epidermal skin parameter changes in females and males after 56 days use of 3 % Cucurbita pepo var. styriaca extract.
to an individual’s satisfaction with their skin and general appearance. Skin moisturisation is very important,
especially in the meno- and andro-pausal life phases. Women experience a sudden drop in hormonal activity and suffer from dry skin, requiring special care in this period. From our data recorded for perception, we know that around 90% of our females and 100% of our males felt they had a more hydrated and nourished skin. Measurements of hydration (Fig 3) revealed
that hydration in women after 56 days use of 3% verum was increased by about 20% on average, while in the men the corresponding increase was greater than 30%. Placebo treatment resulted in a minor improvement of about 10% in both gender groups (data not shown). Differences between female and male skin hydration are due to the differences in stratum corneum thickness.1 Men have in general a thicker stratum corneum resulting in a greater moisturisation effect. If we consider the results for subjective perception (Fig 2) and results of measurement, we can conclude that our panellists were able to feel and see the moisturisation effect irrespective of their gender.
Dermal effects During ageing, the dermis undergoes significant changes. The production of collagen and elastin decreases and degradation increases, leading to an overall reduction in collagen levels. This in turn hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decreases in concentrations of dermal collagen and elastin. Furthermore, collagen fibres become thicker while bundles are disorganised. The numbers of cross-links between collagen increase, making the skin stiffer. Elastin is calcified and its turnover decreased. The associated deterioration of the dermis is characterised by the development of deep wrinkles and skin laxity.6 This is due to the sudden hormonal changes that are more pronounced in women than in men. Various scientific studies have reported that the male dermis is 10-20 % thicker than in the case of females.7
Nevertheless, roughly PERSONAL CARE March 2021 20.00 15.00 10.00
Mean + SEM; n=33/22;
*=p<0.05 **=p<0.01
5.00 0.00 Firmness Elasticity
Figure 4: Dermal skin parameter in females and males after 56 days of use of 3% Cucurbita pepo var. styriaca extract.
6% deterioration occurs in both sexes per life decade. Studies also report that women have a slightly better skin elasticity than men. Female skin is less distensible but has a greater ability to recover after stretching in comparison with male skin. This is due to the different orientation of the connective tissue. In females, the orientation of connective tissue is longitudinal; in males, there is diagonal intersection. This gender-dependent orientation of fascial bands, as one would expect, is particularly relevant when it comes to pregnancy in females. According to our results, firmness and elasticity
were improved to differing extents in both gender groups (Fig 4). In female panellists we observed an improvement in firmness by more than 4% in the verum group while there was a slight decrease in the placebo group (data not shown). Results of measurement of elasticity in the females were slightly improved in both treatment groups, demonstrating that autophagy-counteracting hormonal changes to this dermal parameter were not of particular relevance in the females. Nevertheless, a positive effect was still recorded. This finding goes hand in hand with the subjective perception of effects on skin firmness (Fig 2). Male panellists showed an improvement
of 15% in terms of firmness and 20% in terms of elasticity. Interestingly, results for both parameters in the men showed that mechanical stimulus initially played an important role in fibroblast stimulation. There were also significant improvements with use of placebo, but these completely disappeared following an additional 28 days of use while the effect in the verum group was maintained (data not shown).
Conclusions To tailor genderless skin care with gender- specific efficacy it is necessary to have extensive insights into skin physiology. Male and female skin have different skin physiology and, on top of that, they age differently. High life expectancy gives us an additional stage of life - a privilege that must be taken advantage of. Still, reaching post-menopause and -andropause brings some dramatic changes to our bodies, especially our
skin. Men begin to lose the beloved muscle mass they have built up over the years, which inevitably leads to sagging skin. Therefore, increased firmness and elasticity is one of the best things to achieve to counteract this. For women, this stage of life brings once again the rediscovery of the self, not only of the exterior, but also of the interior. Reforcyl®-Aion activates autophagy, the
ultimate upcycling and cleansing process for ageing cells, irrespective of gender. Autophagy not only cleans cells, but actively helps keratinocytes and fibroblasts regain their functional identity and improve the skin barrier, while there are also increases in collagen and elastin concentrations in the dermis. Improved skin hydration together with an increased skin thickness are the results. Gender-specific regulation of sebum completes the effect of an improved overall skin appearance. Reforcyl®-Aion is not only able to induce autophagy, but also provides the skin with healthy nutrition in the form of a rich cocktail of amino acids, proteins and saccharides.
References 1 Rahrovan S, et al. Male versus female skin: What dermatologists and cosmeticians should know. Int J Womens Dermatol 2018. 4(3): p. 122-130.
2 Eckhart L, Tschachler E, Gruber F. Autophagic Control of Skin Aging. Front Cell Dev Biol 2019; 7: 143.
3 Koenig U, et al. Cell death induced autophagy contributes to terminal differentiation of skin and skin appendages. Autophagy, 2020. 16(5): 932-945.
4 Chalyk NE, et al. Morphological Characteristics of Residual Skin Surface Components Collected from the Surface of Facial Skin in Women of Different Age. Ann Dermatol 2017; 29(4): 454-461.
5 Harding CR, et al. Dry skin, moisturization and corneodesmolysis. Int J Cosmet Sci 2000; 22(1): 21-52.
6 Shin JW, et al. Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches. Int J Mol Sci 2019; 20(9).
7 Branchet MC. et al., Skin thickness changes in normal aging skin. Gerontology, 1990; 36(1): 28-35.
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Mean + SEM; n=33/22;
** 30.00 25.00 Female ■ Male ■
PC
Relative to initial control (%)
Relative to initial control (%)
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