42 WAXES & BUTTERS
The new cosmetic green deal
Flora Bollon – Gattefossé, France
We all know that naturality is no longer just a trend, it is a prerequisite for any new cosmetic product launch. Indeed, it is one of the main consumer expectations, not only in Europe but also throughout the world.
Emergence of new claims From now on, developing a formula made up of ingredients of 100% natural origin is no longer sufficient. Consumers are increasingly demanding and require products that are ever more respectful of the planet and people. Products must be minimalist and part of a simplified beauty routine. They must be multifunctional, just like the ingredients that compose them. Finally, they should contain upcycling ingredients if possible. Formulas must respect our planet. A
growing number of claims are emerging: vegan, waterless, ocean-friendly, biodegradable, zero-waste… The aim is to minimise the environmental impact of each product. The cosmetics industry has a duty to
support producers, as can be seen with the “farm to face” trend. Cosmetic ingredients must come from a sustainable sourcing, as much as possible local and if this is not possible to prioritise fair trade. Finally, consumers want brands with strong and authentic values that are embedded in the company’s DNA. Brands must develop an ambitious CSR policy and communicate on their goals and successes to attract the attention of consumers.
Formulation of natural cosmetics is not so easy Meanwhile, formulating a natural cosmetic product is not that simple, for various reasons: The naturality of the cosmetic ingredients is
It maximises the advantages of vegetable
waxes while overcoming their disadvantages. The advantages being that they act as a barrier against water loss; offer natural and renewable origin and excellent tolerability. The disadvantages being poor sensoriality; the need to work at high temperature; low solubility in oils and recrystallisation/destabilisation issues.
not always clearly indicated, and the calculation methods used vary from one supplier to another (ISO 16128, COSMOS...) ; ■ The formula stability is an essential point to check before launching a new product; ■ The formula must be perfectly tolerated by all skin types; ■ Textures must be always more innovative to attract consumers’ attention; ■ Sensoriality is a key factor that drives purchase intention. Formulating a natural cosmetic product
therefore takes longer, whereas development times decrease year after year. This can become a real headache for the formulator. There is a growing need for truly versatile new ingredients.
Wax butter technology is the solution This technology leads to the creation of 100% natural origin emulsifiers and texture ingredients which bring moisturising benefits due to the vegetable waxes and true sensory identities.
A patented technology For over 30 years, Gattefossé has developed a strong expertise in the transformation and functionalisation of natural waxes according to the rules of green chemistry. This environmentally-friendly chemistry enables the creation of new texture ingredients with particularly interesting properties. Gattefossé holds a number of patents on this technology, the most recent of which describe the reaction of solid and liquid waxes with vegetable polyglycerol.1
The subject of several scientific
papers, communications and recognised as an innovation in textures, this chemistry has been used to create a wide range of ingredients.
How does it work? The wax butter technology creates wax derivatives from natural waxes and polyglycerol, by esterification and interesterification. The selected natural waxes are mixed with polyglycerol-3 of vegetable origin under nitrogen, in a single-step balanced reaction: reactions of esterification and interesterification occur at the same time. ■ Esterification In the presence of a basic catalyst (NaOH), fatty acids react with the alcohol functions of polyglycerol and new amphiphilic polyglyceryl wax esters are formed.
Figure 1: Absorption properties. Wax butter
PERSONAL CARE March 2021
Wax butter+water
Blend formed
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88