90 FORMULATIONS
D Polysorbate 20 Parfum
E CI 42051 (0.1% water solution) CI 47005 (0.1% water solution)
a.n. a.n.
0.20 0.15
Procedure: Prepare phase B and stir it at room temperature until it is homogenous. Add phase A2 to phase B, very slowly, under agitation. Add phase A1 under gentle stirring. Prepare phase B. Add phases C, D, and E under gentle stirring. Properties: Viscosity after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 03, 20 rpm: 200 - 300 cP pH (100%): 5.0 - 7.0
KOSTER KEUNEN FORTIFYING EYE BALM
PHASE INGREDIENTS INCI NAME
A Sustainable Beeswax Beeswax Bayberry Wax Coconut Oil Olive Oil
Olive Squalane
Vitamin E Acetate Agenaflo 9050
Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Wax Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil Squalane
Evening Primrose Oil Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate Corn Starch Modified
LIPOID KOSMETIK MATRIX-SHAPING FACE CREAM
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Acacia Collagen LIPOID P 75-3
Powder
Deionized Water Keltrol® CG-T Glycerin 99.5%
B Lanette® O
# 1/23-188/10005-9 SPLR % W/W
1 1
10.0 5.0
2 38.0 2 30.0 3
4 5
6
8.0 3.0 1.0
5.0
Procedure: Combine all ingredients in a vessel. Melt at 80-85°C and mix until uniform. Pour into containers at approximately 70°C and cool. Properties: Stability: Three months at 45°C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.
Suppliers: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc. 2. Columbus Oils 3. Vantage 4. Jeen International 5. BASF 6. Agrana Starch.
Beeswax, pesticide removed
dermofeel® sensolv Myritol® 318
Squalane, Olive Sepinov™ EMT 10
C PhytoCodine®
D E-Leen® Green C NaOH Taiga
INCI NAME Acacia Seyal Gum
Hydrogenated Lecithin Aqua (Water) Xanthan Gum Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol Beeswax
Isoamyl Laurate
Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride Squalane
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Pinus Sibirica Seedcake Extract, Acanthopanax Senticosus (Eleuthero) Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol
Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate/ Caprate
Sodium Hydroxide
Perfume (Fragrance), Citronellol, Limonene, Linalool
FF10004-1_082024 SPLR % W/W
1 0.10 1
3.00 ad 100
2 0.15 3 4.50 1.50
4 1.00 5 3.00
3 2.50 4.00
6 0.90 1 1.00
7 4.00 q.s.
8 0.30
Procedure: Disperse LIPOID P75-3 in deionized water at 60°C, add the remaining components of phase A. Heat phase B to 70°C. Add phase B to A, homogenize. Cool the emulsion down to 40°C, add phase C and homogenize shortly again. Cool further down to room temperature, add preservative and perfume. Adjust the final pH to 6–7. Properties: Appearance: light beige, glossy emulsion; pH value: 6-7 Stability: Successfully passed internal stress test (3 months at 5°C, 25°C and 40°C)
LAMBERTI
NETTLE PURIFYING SHAMPOO PHASE INGREDIENTS
A1 Deer A2 B1 B2
B3 ESAFLOR® T C1 C2 EUCAROL®
C3 C4
C5 C6
C7 AGE/EC MB INCI NAME Aqua (Water)
Sodium Coco-sulfate (˜100% a.m.) Aqua (Water)
Glycerin
Sodium Carboxymethyl/ Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum
Lauryl Glucoside (˜50% a.m.) Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate
Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract
Preservatives
Parfum (Fragrance) CI 42090
Citric Acid, 20% soln.
LAMCOS 247 % W/W
to 100 6.9
35.0 3.0
0.3 8.0 10.0
0.5 q.s.
q.s. q.s.
to pH ˜5.0
Procedure: In the main vessel, under stirring, add A2 into water, followed by A3-A5.
Adjust pH to ˜5.0, then add A7. In a support vessel, add B2 with vigorous stirring; keep stirring for ˜20 min to ensure the complete hydration of the polymer. For a faster hydration, heat up to 45-50°C. Add phase B into phase A and stir until homogeneous. Add ingredients of phase C in given order, mixing well after each addition. Adjust pH
to ˜5.0, if necessary. Properties: Appearance: slightly translucent viscous liquid
pH : ˜5.0 Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 20 rpm, 25°C): ˜4000 mPa*s
PERSONAL CARE June 2025
Suppliers: 1. Lipoid Kosmetik 2. CP Kelco 3. BASF 4. Hammonia Oleochemicals 5. Evonik Nutrition & Care 6. Seppic 7. MinaSolve 8. Frey & Lau
MERCK ANTI-WRINKLE FACE CARE – EFFICACY PROVEN!
PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Tego® Care PSC 3 Tegin® M Pellets Lanette® O
Miglyol® 812 N Myritol® 331 Cetiol® B
Isopropyl Palmitate B1 1,2-Propanediol B2 Keltrol® CG-RD C RonaCare® Cyclopep-
tide-5 alcoholfree Preservatives
Fragrance INCI NAME
Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Cocoglycerides Dibutyl Adipate
Isopropyl Palmitate Propylene Glycol
Water, demineralized Aqua Xanthan Gum
Glycerin, Aqua, Lecithin,Ectoin, Cyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate
Parfum
MDA-A-144-14 SPLR % W/W
1 1
3.00 2.00
2 2.00 3 5.00 2 3.00 2 3.50 2 3.50 4 4.00
ad 100
5 0.10 4 2.00 q.s.
q.s.
Procedure: Disperse phase B2 in phase B1. Heat phase A and phase B to 75-80°C. Add phase A slowly to phase B while stirring. Homogenize. Cool down while stirring and add phase C at 40°C. Adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5. Properties: Appearance: white o/w lotion pH (24 °C): 5.9 Viscosity: 10,000 mPa.s (Brookfield DVII+, Helipath spindle B, 10 rpm) at 24°C Stability: 3 months at 40°C, FTC (-5°C to +40°C), 5°C and RT.
Suppliers: 1. Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH 2. BASF AG 3. IOI Oleo GmbH 4. Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany/ EMD Performance Materials Corp. 5. RAHN GmbH
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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