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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK PhytoSolve®
The performance of lipophilic cosmetic actives can be significantly enhanced by suitable carrier systems. Such carrier systems deliver the actives into deeper skin layers, where they are most effective. In addition, carriers should provide increased solubility and easy processing into cosmetic formulations. Moreover, excellent tolerability and absence of synthetic ingredients or additives are key to modern skin care products.1,2 Lipoid Kosmetik’s PhytoSolve® technology meets all these requirements. This ready-to-use carrier system is available with the pre-dissolved lipophilic actives coenzyme Q10, vitamin A, vitamin E and astaxanthin. Phospholipids are essential components of this technology and ideal partners for lipophilic actives. In addition to their functional properties as emulsifiers (Figure 1), phospholipids serve as effective penetration enhancers acting via a unique mechanism. Moreover, phospholipids exhibit skin-
Therefore, the natural skin June 2025 : Amplifying
encapsulated cosmetic actives PERSONAL CARE
GLOBAL INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ● MANUFACTURE
preservatives was shown. Thus, PhytoSolve® products are ideal for a simple and effective formulation of advanced cosmetic products.
In vitro activity: PhytoSolve® naturally enhances skin penetration Natural phospholipids enhance the penetration of encapsulated lipophilic actives via a unique mechanism: They modulate the fluidity of the rigid interlamellar lipids present in the stratum corneum.4
The endogenous
nature of phospholipids allows their insertion into these structures. In addition, the small droplet size
rejuvenating effects that complement the cosmetic effects of the actives. Their endogenous nature allows metabolization when they reach deeper skin layers.3
barrier is restored after the phospholipids have exerted their penetration enhancing effect.
Formulation: PhytoSolve® facilitates processing in cosmetics products The PhytoSolve® range is available with four pre-selected actives. The unique technology allows easy processing and boosts the potency of the actives by delivering them deep into the skin.
PhytoSolve® Astaxanthin, a product PHOSPHOLIPIDS
Hydrophilic Head
Solubilized Active
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with an intense red color, was processed into an aqueous formulation and a cream, respectively, at different concentrations. PhytoSolve® enabled an even and complete dissolution of astaxanthin in both formulation types. In addition, PhytoSolve® results in
attractive transparent formulations when being incorporated into water-based products such as serums, tonics, and hydrogels (Figure 2). Moreover, compatibility with several different
EMULSION
contributes to the skin interaction as it enhances the surface area. This mechanism allows lipophilic actives to surpass the stratum corneum and reach their site of action. However, the stratum corneum fluidization is only temporary as phospholipids can be metabolized via physiological pathways. The penetration enhancing effect of natural phospholipids was shown in an in vitro study using a static Franz diffusion cell with freshly excised human breast skin. O/w emulsions with PhytoSolve® A or PhytoSolve® Q10, respectively, were applied to the skin and the amount of active was quantified in the stratum corneum (SC), the viable epidermis (EP) and the dermis (DR). As control, corresponding formulations of retinyl palmitate and coenzyme Q10 but without phospholipids were tested. PhytoSolve® increased the amounts of both
retinyl palmitate and coenzyme Q10 in all skin layers. The cumulative amounts of penetrated
Lipophilic Tail
0.1%
Figure 1: Schematic picture of an emulsion droplet formed with PhytoSolve® products
PERSONAL CARE June 2025
of PhytoSolve® Astaxanthin 1.0%
0.25% 2.0%
Figure 2: Transparent water-based products with different concentrations of PhytoSolve Astaxanthin
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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