76 SUN CARE Moreover, ROS can stimulate the activity of
various enzymes, such as tyrosinase (the main enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis) and elastase (a proteolytic enzyme involved in elastin degradation), leading to the appearance of dark spots in sun-exposed areas and loss of skin elasticity. Consequently, if a product tested in vitro can reduce ROS production, it indicates that it is also a good anti-ageing candidate potentially able to mitigate and delay the skin ageing process.6 Considering the importance of sun
protection against skin-ageing, Innovacos has developed Plant C-Stem Vigna Radiata (INCI: Glycerin, Water, Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract), hereafter Vigna radiata vacuolar extract. This innovative water-soluble active
ingredient represents a completely new concept of plant extraction: it is a vacuolar extract that preserves the full plant biological properties, and it is obtained from stem cells, that are undifferentiated cells in plants with a high capacity for self-renewal and differentiation, through Stem™ cell culture technology, a green and sustainable alternative to traditional cultivation techniques. Vigna radiata – also known as the mung
bean - was selected because this plant is highly resistant to environmental stress, especially UV radiation, but also to drought and high salt concentration. Therefore, it is a plant highly resistant to harmful environmental conditions. Through a biotechnological process based on Stem cell culture, Innovacos obtained individual Vigna radiata cells, from which the vacuole content is selectively extract. The vacuole is the place where the plant
stores all the bioactive components required for its growth and repair. This process uses an innovative method that extracts the contents of the vacuole without solvents, enzymes, or high temperatures, as a result preserving the biological potential unchanged. The extract obtained through this process
exhibits extraordinary reparative capabilities on sun-damaged skin, also protecting it from irritation and photoageing, a skin ageing process primarily caused by chronic and cumulative exposure to the sun’s UV radiation. This type of ageing differs from chronological ageing, which is mainly due to the passage of time and genetic changes. Photoageing is characterized by distinctive signs such as hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, wrinkles, sunspots, and actinic lentigines, which appear only on areas of the skin exposed to direct sunlight. Vigna radiata vacuolar extract helps protect against various types of solar radiation (UVA/UVB rays, IR, and blue light). Additionally, its SPF-boosting effect makes it an essential ingredient for innovative sun care formulations.
In vitro evaluation of the protective action against blue light and IR The purpose of this test was to evaluate the protective effect of Vigna radiata vacuolar extract against oxidative stress by measuring ROS production induced by blue light and infrared radiation.
PERSONAL CARE June 2025 Negative control ■ Vigna Radiata Vacuole Content (VC) ■
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
** p<0.01 vs NC
60.7% **
61.8% **
NC
0.25%
1.00% Figure 1: ROS production after blue light-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes Negative control ■ Vigna Radiata Vacuole Content (VC) ■
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
** p<0.01 vs NC ** 18.5%
NC
keratinocytes (Huker), which were cultured in a nutrient-rich environment consisting of DMEM (Dulbecco’s modified Eagle medium) supplemented with 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS) and 1% antibiotics (penicillin and streptomycin). In accordance with good cell culture practices, the cells were maintained under standard conditions at 37°C with 5% CO2 Before the main test, preliminary cell
1.00%
Figure 2: ROS production after infrared-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes The experiments were conducted on human
diacetate (DCFDA) was used, which is highly reliable for detecting free radicals within cells. The DCFDA was initially dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) at a concentration of 50mM and then diluted into a buffer solution to reach a final concentration of 250μM. The cells were incubated with this solution
.
viability assays (MTT) were carried out to identify the optimal concentration of Vigna radiata vacuolar extract needed to effectively assess its protective properties and ensure that it is not cytotoxic for the cells. After the MTT, human keratinocytes were then seeded into 96-well plates, and once they reached a semi-confluent monolayer, they were treated with the selected concentrations of the vacuolar extract. Following this treatment, the cells were exposed to appropriate levels of radiation to simulate the stress conditions. In this setup, the untreated cells served as
the negative control (NC). The level of ROS production in these cells was compared to that of cells treated with the Vigna radiata vacuolar extract to determine the extract’s protective effects. To measure the ROS levels, a fluorogenic
probe known as 2’,7’-dichlorodihydrofluorescein
for 20 minutes under the same standard culture conditions. After incubation, the DCFDA was removed, the cells were properly washed with PBS before the fluorescence reading. The fluorescence, measured at an excitation wavelength of 485 nm and an emission wavelength of 530 nm, is directly proportional to the amount of ROS produced by the cells, providing an indicator of oxidative stress levels.6
Protective action against blue light According to the results of the MTT test, the concentrations of 0.25 % and 1.00% of Vigna radiata vacuolar extract were selected to be incorporated into the human keratinocytes culture.
The human keratinocytes were first treated with the chosen concentrations of Vigna radiata vacuolar extract and then irradiated with blue light. ROS production was stimulated by exposing the cells to 35 J/cm2
a Wood lamp with an irradiance of 4.7 mW/cm2
of blue light using .
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