78 SUN CARE
approximately 20 ± 4 hours after irradiation. No statistically significant differences were recorded between the analysed areas (treated area vs. control); the erythema caused was homogeneous in all sites. Then, a formulation containing Vigna
radiata vacuolar extract and a placebo formulation were applied at a concentration of 2 mg/cm2
to two of the three irradiated skin
sites, while the third site was left untreated as a control. Instrumental evaluations of the erythema index were performed at three time points: T-1 (before damage), T0 (20 ± 4 hours after damage induction), and T1h (one hour after product application). The erythema index was measured
using a Mexameter MX18, a device that assesses haemoglobin content in the skin. The device works based on the principle of light absorption. A specialized probe emits light at two distinct wavelengths: one wavelength matches the spectral absorption peak of haemoglobin, allowing it to measure the haemoglobin levels in the skin, while the second wavelength is selected to avoid interference from pigments like bilirubin, which can affect colorimetric readings. The device then measures the reflected light from the skin, and the recorded data is used to calculate and summarize the erythema index values. It is important to note that the erythema
values are individual, as they depend on ethnicity and phototype, and there are no standardized references. In this study, no statistically significant differences were observed between the analyzed areas (treated vs. control) at T-1 and T0, indicating that the induced erythema was homogeneous across all sites. However, one hour after the application
of the two formulations (placebo and the one containing Vigna radiata vacuolar extract), a significant reduction in the erythematous response caused by UVA+UVB radiation was observed in the areas treated with the Vigna Radiata vacuolar extract formulation (Figure 3). This result demonstrates that Vigna radiata vacuolar extract effectively reduces UV-induced erythema.8
SPF booster evaluation SPF boosters are substances that, while not having their own UV radiation absorption properties, can enhance the efficacy of sunscreen formulations by increasing the SPF. These additives improve the application and functional performance of the sunscreen. Based on Vigna radiata vacuolar extract’s
ability to reduce erythema in UV-irradiated skin, it was hypothesized that it could have a potential in vivo SPF booster effect. In the in vivo evaluation, the SPF value of
a sunscreen is the ratio between the energies required to induce a minimal erythemic response on protected skin (MEDp) with the tested product and unprotected skin (MEDu). The minimal erythema dose (MED) is the amount of UV radiation required to cause minimal erythema (sunburn or redness) on an individual’s skin a few hours after UV exposure. A sun care product containing Vigna radiata
PERSONAL CARE June 2025
TABLE 1: SPF VALUES OF FORMULATION CONTAINING VIGNA RADIATA VACUOLAR EXTRACT AND PLACEBO
Phase Ingredients A1 Aqua
Glycerin A2 Xanthan Gum
Magnesium Aluminium Silicate Aqua
A3 Phenylbenzimidazol Sulfonic Acid Sodium Hydroxide (30%) Cetearyl Alcohol Ceteareth-20 Dicaprylyl Ether
B Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
C
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Vigna radiata
D Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Parfum
In vivo SPF In vitro SPF
vacuolar extract demonstrated a higher in vivo SPF value (in vivo SPF value 18.9) compared to a placebo (in vivo SPF value 15), with a 20% SPF booster effect. Due to its clinically proven soothing effect on skin erythema, the application of a sunscreen containing Vigna radiata vacuolar extract requires higher energy to induce erythema; as a result, an increased in vivo SPF value is observed.9 On the same formulation, an in vitro SPF test
resulted in a lower SPF value (in vitro SPF value 12.3) compared to the in vivo test (in vivo SPF value 18.9), as Vigna radiata vacuolar extract does not act as a UV filter and has no effect on UV transmittance.10
Its biological activity is observed
only in in vivo tests, where erythema production is a crucial factor in SPF calculation (Table 1).
Conclusion Considering the crucial role of oxidative stress and inflammation in skin ageing and sun damage, these studies have demonstrated the significant protective potential of Plant C-Stem Vigna Radiata against skin damage caused by various forms of solar radiation. Obtained through an innovative vacuolar extraction process, which preserves the plant’s biological potential, this active ingredient provides exceptional protective and reparative properties for the skin. In vitro tests showed that the Vigna radiata
vacuolar extract led to a 60% reduction in ROS production following exposure to blue light and an 18% reduction for infrared radiation. In vivo studies also demonstrated its soothing effect on UV-induced erythema, confirming its potential role as an SPF booster. These results confirm the Vigna radiata
vacuolar extract is a valuable natural ingredient for anti-ageing skin care and sun protection products, offering a cutting-edge solution in line with modern trends in natural cosmetics.
PC Active Formulation % Placebo %
up to 100 up to 100 3.00 0.50 1.00
3.00 0.50 1.00
10.00 3.00 1.50
2.00 1.00 3.00 3.00 0.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.00 a.n. a.n.
18.9 12.3
10.00 3.00 1.50
2.00 1.00 3.00 3.00 0.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.00 a.n. a.n.
15.0
References 1. Sondenheimer K, Krutmann J. Novel means for photoprotection. Front Med. 2018;5:162
2. Gromkowska-Kępka KJ, Puścion-Jakubik A, Markiewicz-Żukowska R, Socha K. The impact of ultraviolet radiation on skin photoaging— review of in vitro studies. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021
3. Montero P, Roger I, Milara J, Cortijo J. Damaging effects of UVA, blue light, and infrared radiation: in vitro assessment on a reconstructed full-thickness human skin. Front Bioeng Biotechnol. 2023;11:1267409
4. Schroeder P, Krutmann J. Infrared A-induced skin aging. In: Textbook of Aging Skin. Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg; 2015. p. 1-7
5. Suitthimeathegorn O, Liu Wet al. Direct and indirect effects of blue light exposure on the skin: a review of the published literature. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2022;35(6):305-18
6. Bio Basic Europe S.r.l. In vitro evaluation of the protective action of a cosmetic product against blue light (Protocol No. 2203B01V-2). Milan: Bio Basic Europe S.r.l.; 2022
7. Bio Basic Europe S.r.l. In vitro evaluation of the protective action of a cosmetic product against infrared radiation (Protocol No. 2210C14V2-1). Milano: Bio Basic Europe S.r.l.; 2023
8. Complife Italia. Assessment of the soothing effect of a raw material for cosmetic use on skin redness induced by a solar simulator (UVA+UVB) (Protocol
H.E.HU. MP.NSO01.020.03.00_2019/3904). Garbagnate Milanese (MI). 2020
9. Bio Basic Europe S.r.l. In vivo SPF booster test for Plant C-Stem VR (Protocol No. 2015L30S- 1-S-2). Milan: Bio Basic Europe S.r.l.; 2020
10. Bio Basic Europe S.r.l. Preliminary determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro (Protocol No. 2015L30NP-1). Milan: Bio Basic Europe S.r.l.; 2020
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