HAIR CARE
exposure to sun light and temperature (such as the use of dryers and flat iron). The SEM technique was used in this study
to assess the surface of hair fibres submitted to hair care products. The image is the result of secondary electrons formed while the sample surface is scanned by a high-intensity beam of electrons. By means of image analysis software programs, it is possible to standardize images and quantify the respective surface damage to enable a more precise comparison of the action of hair care products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate
levels of damage to the surface of hair fibres submitted to PQ33-starch emulsion via scanning electron microscopy (SEM) performed by Kosmoscience. Double-bleached Caucasian hair tresses
were pretreated with SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) at 10% solution for one minute then rinsed. 2% active PQ-33 starch emulsion was applied on hair tress (0.1g/g hair) for 20s without rinsing as a leave-in product. After the treatment, the hair fibres were collected for scanning electron microscopy (SEM) analysis. PQ-33 starch emulsion was compared to the control SLES, 5 images were acquired for each treatment group. From the images obtained, image analysis
was made with a software programme to detect damage to the hair fibre surface (raised cuticles, fragments) characterized by lighter-coloured areas. To quantify the level of damage to the hair fibre surface, the percentage of damage (= D), parameter was determined. This parameter represents the percentage of white pixels in relation to the total number of pixels (kept constant) of images converted into a binary white: black system. Figure 8 summarizes the results from image
analysis for each sample. A lower value indicates better hair’s resistance to damage. By using only 2% PQ-33 starch and no other ingredients, a damage reduction is measured by 12%, cuticles appear smoother (Figure 9). Based on these results obtained, PQ-33 starch
presented the necessary efficiency to support the following claims: restoration of superficial damage, softness, healthy hair, and restores hair compared to a pretreated hair with SLES.
Conclusion The PQ33-starch emulsion is inherently biodegradable, which ensures that it has a significantly reduced environmental footprint
CONTROL Figure 7: Illustration of detection of fragments and edges via image analysis % damage detected on hair surface
2% (active) Natursol EMI REV in water
Control shampoo SLES 10%
0.0 5.0 10.0 15.0 20.0 17.9*
67
20.3 25.0
Figure 8: Percentage of damage detected, mean ± std N=5, * Value of damage significantly lower compared to the control . Method: Bimodal, unpaired, Student’s t-test. Confidence interval: 95%
while maintaining high performance, as demonstrated in the various tests outlined above. This eco-friendly attribute makes it a responsible choice for formulators aiming to meet the increasing demand for sustainable products in the cosmetics industry, without sacrificing the efficacy and quality that consumers expect. As a new cationic rheology modifier,
the PQ33-starch emulsion plays a key role in improving the texture and conditioning properties of hair care formulations. One of the standout features of PQ33-starch emulsion is its ability to be processed in a cold formulation, making it especially convenient for formulators.
2% FLOCARE EMI REV
Additionally, the emulsion disperses easily in formulations and does not require neutralization to hydrate or thicken, simplifying the production process and making it more efficient and user-friendly for formulators. Beyond its functional ease of use, the
PQ33-starch emulsion offers several additional benefits that make it an innovative and multifunctional ingredient for hair care products. It provides thermal protection, helping to safeguard hair from the damaging effects of heat styling tools, such as straighteners, curling irons, and blow dryers. It also enhances the moisturization of hair,
improving hydration retention, and leaves hair feeling soft and nourished. Furthermore, the emulsion helps define curls, offering frizz control and enhancing natural texture, while also providing protection against the damaging effects of bleaching and oxidative stress during hair colour treatments. All of these properties combine to make
Figure 9: SEM pictures
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the PQ33-starch emulsion a versatile, high- performance ingredient that can be used in a wide range of hair care products, including conditioners, styling creams, and treatments. Natursol EMI Rev presents a groundbreaking approach to hair care formulation that aligns seamlessly with the industry’s evolving focus on sustainability without compromising on performance.
PC June 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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