ANTI-AGEING
Longevity: contemporary vision of anti-ageing
Camille Desperiez, Helene Muchico, Brigitte Closs - Silab
In our everyday lives, it can seem that time flies, yet the beauty industry attempts to reverse this perception by pushing back the limits of ageing. How does the cosmetics industry adapt to this new anti-ageing era? What effective and innovative solutions can slow the relentless advance of time? According to the World Health Organization,
overall life expectancy in the world has increased by more than 6 years between 2000 and 2019, from 66.8 to 73.1 years. Even though healthy life expectancy has increased by 9%, this increase is due primarily to decreased mortality and not to a reduced number of years living with deteriorated health.1 This difference between life expectancy
and healthy life expectancy has opened new perspectives for research on the biology of ageing by encouraging the investigation of approaches aiming not only to prolong life, but also to preserve good health and the functional capacities of the human body. It has also led to the development of an
interdisciplinary scientific ecosystem that now includes a community of basic research and companies in the areas of life sciences, heath care and health technologies. The shared goal of all these entities is to improve the long-term quality of life.2 In parallel to the new medical solutions
proposed by the “science of longevity”, there has been a constantly increasing demand by consumers for products and services enabling them to age in good health. According to a study conducted by the McKinsey consulting firm, more than 60% of consumers questioned believe that it is “very” or “extremely” important to purchase products and services that favour these two objectives.3 The creation of longevity clinics also
reflects this state of mind that now prioritizes prevention and optimizing quality of life. These clinics propose personalized health care of their patients in the form of a range of services and interventions focused on the early detection and treatment of age-related diseases. The holistic view provided by these clinics overlaps current expectations in terms of care models designed to promote ageing well. The skin care industry has not escaped
this unprecedented interest in longevity. A new generation of products whose claims and efficacies are backed up by science illustrates a major change in the narratives: instead of erasing the visible signs of ageing, the message
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is now the promotion of preventive health and the overall vitality of the skin.4 These solutions therefore offer the promise
of a caring and rational support to female consumers weary of the ideals of a youthful appearance. In particular, revolutionary scientific progress in the understanding of the biological process of ageing has given rise to a new anti-ageing approach. Certain pathways and key markers of
biological ageing in fact have become obligatory references for preserving the beauty and health of the skin. In particular, this is the case for sirtuins, intercellular communication (notably by exosomes) and the biological mechanisms of epigenetics.
Key players in cutaneous longevity Metabolic cellular sensors The effect of sirtuins on longevity depends on the availabilities of the coenzyme NAD+
,
required for correct mitochondrial functioning and the production of energy, and of AMPK, an energy sensor that protects cellular metabolism. The results of new studies using different models of epidermal and dermal ageing have
ABSTRACT
Longevity is the subject of intense focus by the scientific community and in parallel it opens the path to new perspectives for the anti-ageing concept. Silab proposes a strategic selection of its active ingredients, demonstrating its expertise concerning the biological mechanisms involved in chronological ageing and assists brands in the development of their cutting-edge skin care products
enabled Silab to demonstrate the transversal action of its active ingredient Water & Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract on sirtuins 1, 3, 6 and 7 and of their coactivators NAD+
(Figure 1) and AMPK. The active ingredient
has therefore a positive effect on a number of age-related mechanisms, in particular by improving mitochondrial activity and by limiting the onset of cell senescence and glycation. Resulting from its positive effect on these
cellular mechanisms, the Water & Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract limits protein
June 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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