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72 ANTI-POLLUTION


compromise between scientific innovation and sustainable progress, this innovative cocoa extract demonstrates the highest level of commitment to sourcing. The biofunctional ingredient is obtained


from a very special variety of Criollo porcelana, also known as white cocoa because of the characteristic whiteness of its beans. This white cocoa is the “native one” (“criollo” means “creole” = native). It was the first to be cultivated 3000 years ago in northern Peru. This white cocoa is the finest but also the


most fragile variety of cocoa, found only in the northern region of Latin America. Peruvian people replanted the criollo tree to preserve this heritage and prevent its extinction, by grafting it on host tree Trinitario to improve its resistance and yield. By supporting local Peruvian producers, Ashland contributes to the preservation of this heritage. Thanks to a dedicated and trusted partner who has built strong relationships with local farmers in the Piuria region of Peru, Ashland can guarantee the highest level of ethical and sustainable commitment for this sourcing. The biofunctional ingredient is responsibly sourced from a Peruvian cooperative engaged in a rigorous selection of farmers, certified and committed for biodiversity, ensuring close and direct contact with producers for optimal quality and traceability. This cooperation is not only bringing financial support to the farmers but also technical support to small-scale local cocoa producers, and providing trainings on good practices on environmental and agronomical aspects, for a responsible use and regeneration of resources (water management, anti- poaching, reforestation of Sierra with local trees etc.). Ties built with local farmers are so close and


ethical commitment is so strong that this cocoa sourcing was granted with FairTrade label, and was the first to obtain the Nagoya compliance Certificate from the Peruvian government (research permit for commercial purposes on cocoa beans from the Government of Peru granted in 2022), thus ensuring a fair sharing of the benefits with the local owners of this natural resource. After cultivation, harvesting, drying and grinding of cocoa beans under strong sustainable requirements in Peru, the unique biotechnological transformation process is made in France, until mixing with water and organic vegetal solvent (facultative step, the biofunctional ingredient also exists in pure powder form). Hence, the biofunctional ingredient is a water


soluble cocoa extract, cosmos-approved, vegan, biodegradable and NATRUE-approved.


PC


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2. He X, Jin S, Dai X, Chen L, Xiang L, Zhang C. The Emerging Role of Visible Light in


PERSONAL CARE June 2025


Melanocyte Biology and Skin Pigmentary Disorders: Friend or Foe? J Clin Med. 2023 Dec 4;12(23):7488


3. Bonnans M, Fouque L, Pelletier M, Chabert R, Pinacolo S, Restellini L, Cucumel K. Blue light: Friend or foe? J Photochem Photobiol B. 2020 Nov;212:112026


4. Lim HW, Kohli I, Granger C, Trullàs C, Piquero- Casals J, Narda M, Masson P, Krutmann J, Passeron T. Photoprotection of the Skin from Visible Light-Induced Pigmentation: Current Testing Methods and Proposed Harmonization. J Invest Dermatol. 2021 Nov;141(11):2569-2576


5. Taylor SC, Alexis AF, Armstrong AW, Chiesa Fuxench ZC, Lim HW. Misconceptions of photoprotection in skin of color. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022 Mar;86(3S):S9-S17


6. Suh S, Choi EH, Atanaskova Mesinkovska N. The expression of opsins in the human skin and its implications for photobiomodulation: A Systematic Review. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2020 Sep;36(5):329-338


7. Haltaufderhyde K, Ozdeslik RN, Wicks NL, Najera JA, Oancea E. Opsin expression in human epidermal skin. Photochem Photobiol. 2015 Jan-Feb;91(1):117-23


8. Olinski LE, Lin EM, Oancea E. Illuminating insights into opsin 3 function in the skin. Adv Biol Regul. 2020 Jan;75:100668


9. Wu Q, Xia Y, Dai K, et al. Solar light induces the release of acetylcholine from skin keratinocyte affecting melanogenesis. The FASEB Journal. 2020; 34: 8941–8958


10. Heinrich U, Neukam K, Tronnier H, Sies H, Stahl W. Long-term ingestion of high flavanol cocoa provides photoprotection against UV-induced erythema and improves skin condition in women. J Nutr. 2006 Jun;136(6):1565-9


11. Williams S, Tamburic S, Lally C. Eating chocolate can significantly protect the skin from UV light. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009 Sep;8(3):169-73


12. Scapagnini G, Davinelli S, Di Renzo L, De Lorenzo A, Olarte HH, Micali G, Cicero AF, Gonzalez S. Cocoa bioactive compounds: significance and potential for the maintenance of skin health. Nutrients. 2014 Aug 11;6(8):3202-13


13. Montagna MT, Diella G, Triggiano F, Caponio GR, De Giglio O, Caggiano G, Di Ciaula A, Portincasa P. Chocolate, “Food of the Gods”: History, Science, and Human Health. Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2019 Dec 6;16(24):4960.


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