86 NATURALS During application Spreadability Absorption
5 4 3 2 1
0 Cushion (afterfeel) Smoothness Silkiness Dry powder feel
Figure 3: Crystal Sunscreen Stick Sensory evaluation with the natural elastomer, a silicone benchmark or Coco-Caprylate/Caprate. (Note: Results obtained under laboratory conditions. It is recommended that performance is confirmed with additional formulations/trials)
As can be seen in Figure 3, the addition of the
biobased elastomer gel to the clear sunscreen stick formulation had substantial benefits both during application and in terms of afterfeel. Its use was found to greatly improve product absorption and reduce greasiness on the skin. Interestingly, this benefit was seen with the
naturally derived elastomer but did not occur with the silicone elastomer benchmark. After application, it provided a matte, powdery dry and cushioned afterfeel. These benefits would provide substantial improvements in the sensory experience for consumer use of SPF products.
Multifunctional products A recent survey by Veylinx in 2024 uncovered an increasing consumer desire in the US for multifunctional SPF products in particular tinted SPF products of foundations with sun protection included.11
This opportunity to grow the beauty space
also presents challenges as UV filters can take up a significant percentage of the formulation and often bring less desirable characteristics such as being oily or whitening on skin. The naturally derived elastomer gel can be
used to formulate anhydrous multi-functional products, reducing the number of items required by the consumer and the unnecessary transport of water and less packaging use. Facial primer, SPF protection and mousse foundation can all be delivered from one efficient product.
Performance in emulsions The naturally derived elastomer gel also functions as a performance additive to emulsion formulations. In foundation formulations based upon water-in-oil emulsions it was shown to reduce oiliness and increase the sensation of cushioning. After application it was particularly seen to improve colour uniformity even when compared to a silicone elastomer benchmark. In oil-in-water emulsions the natural
elastomer was found to have the greatest impact on the sensory afterfeel. Compared to a control without elastomer gel the cream
PERSONAL CARE June 2025
was found to provide a powdery dry, velvety sensation that was non-sticky and had a matte finish. The skin also felt more moisturized to the test panel. Formulations were found to have better absorption and a less oily feel during application.
Conclusion With the introduction of Harmonie NatuVel gel, a new generation of cosmetics and skin care can be offered to the consumer. This is just the beginning of the possibilities created by this technology platform. The current technology offers opportunities
for further developments with adapted structures and different solvents offering a multitude of benefits across different product categories.
References 1. L’Oréal unveils its next generation of bold sustainability targets for 2030. https://www.
PC
loreal.com/en/press-release/sustainable- development/loral-unveils-its-next- generation-of-bold-sustainability-targets- for-2030/
2. Procter & Gamble. Responsible Beauty.
https://www.pg.co.uk/environmental- sustainability/
3. EcoBeautyScore. Step-Change for Beauty Sector Environmental Transparency: EcoBeautyScore Tool Launch Democratizes Environmental Impact Assessment and Scoring.
https://www.ecobeautyscore.com/app/ uploads/2025/03/ENG-EcoBeautyScore- press-release-Mar-2025-VF.pdf
4. Mintel. 2025 LATAM Beauty & Personal Care Trends
5. OliverWyman. What You Need To Know About Carbon Accounting In Europe. https://
www.oliverwyman.com/our-expertise/ insights/2023/aug/carbon-accounting-
europe.html
6. Carbon Trust. Greenhouse Gloss - Is the beauty industry’s commitment to tackling climate change more than skin deep? https://ctprodstorageaccountp.blob.
core.windows.net/prod-drupal- files/documents/resource/public/ Greenhouse-Gloss-beauty- NZIU-report.pdf 7. Mintel. Global Outlook on Sustainability: A Consumer Study 2024-25.
https://store.mintel.
com/report/global-outlook- sustainability-consumer-study 8. Mintel GNPD (Global New Products Database)
9. Dow. New Developments in Silicone Elastomers for Skin Care.
10. American Chemical Society. 12 Principles of Green Chemistry.
https://www.acs. org/green-chemistry-sustainability/ principles/12-principles-of-green-
chemistry.html
11. Global Cosmetic Industry. Supergoop!, Amorepacific and Beiersdorf Experts Talk Beauty’s Sunification. 20 February 2025
www.personalcaremagazine.com
After application Non-balling
Moisturized feel Non-oily
5 4 3 2 1
0 Matte finish
Harmonie NatuVel gel ■ Silicone Benchmark 1 ■ Control ■
Non-sticky/tacky
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