AI
such as mass spectrometry (MS) and high- performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), AI can construct a comprehensive library of known natural compounds and their sources. MeNow has leveraged this approach to
develop a proprietary database encompassing over 60,000 organisms and 500,000 bioactive compounds. Among those organisms are 43,000 species of botanicals (including algae), as well as bacteria, fungi, corals, insects and even pandas. Even though no one is suggesting making cosmetics out of pandas, who knows? They might contain rare bioactives that might inspire the next biotech ingredients. Going beyond simple cataloguing, the
AI system has been trained to predict the molecular composition of different plant parts with over 87% accuracy and can even take into account the extraction method, allowing for the targeted identification of promising bioactives without exhaustive lab work. By combining such an extensive
database with the AI-driven bioactive discovery approach detailed earlier, one can systematically uncover new, innovative natural compounds, accelerating research and unlocking powerful new skin care ingredients that might have otherwise remained hidden in nature, such as new SIRT1 activators (Figure 2).
The discovery of pernolipids: nature’s hidden SIRT1 powerhouses Using this advanced AI modelling, MeNow identified a completely new class of molecules with extraordinary SIRT1 activation potential. Those molecules belong to the chemical class of pernolipids and contain between 50 to 60 carbon atoms. These molecules are so novel that no
structurally similar compounds have ever been described before. Even more fascinating, they are exclusively found in two rare mushroom species that have never been used in cosmetics: Gymnopilus spectabilis and Phaeolepiota aurea.
Within these mushrooms, MeNow identified
12 molecules belonging to the pernolipid family that show SIRT1 activation properties. Among them, three molecules demonstrated an activation effect that is more than twice as strong as resveratrol, and ten times stronger than curcumin (Figure 4). However, there is a slight hiccup: Gymnopilus spectabilis is hallucinogenic. While a psychedelic beauty trend might be fun, tripping while applying skin care might not be the best idea. On the other hand, Phaeolepiota aurea
presents a unique and exciting opportunity for cosmetic innovation. This golden-capped mushroom, though not currently registered in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), has been known in some cultures for its culinary and medicinal potential. It is primarily found in temperate regions of Europe, North America, and parts of Asia, growing in nutrient-rich soils, often in open woodlands and forest edges. Historically, Phaeolepiota aurea has
been consumed in certain parts of Europe, particularly in Scandinavia and Eastern Europe,
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SIRT1 Activation Efficacy of AI-Based Discovery and Benchmark Compounds
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Prenolipids
Strigolactones
Figure 4: A comparison of SIRT1 activation efficacy between the seven new compounds found by MeNow’s system, three prenolipids from Phaeolepiota aurea and four strigolactones from Sorghum bicolor, with the three benchmark SIRT1 activators Resveratrol, Luteolin and Curcumin
where it has been recognized for its unique flavour and texture. However, due to its high chitin content, it requires proper cooking to prevent gastrointestinal discomfort. Despite this, its bioactive potential remains largely unexplored in the cosmetic industry. This species is rich in phenolic compounds,
flavonoids, and carotenoids, which contribute to its remarkable antioxidant and anti- inflammatory properties. These attributes make it an exciting candidate for future skin care applications, particularly in formulations targeting cellular repair, oxidative stress mitigation, and skin barrier reinforcement. As research progresses, Phaeolepiota aurea could emerge as a novel ingredient in high-performance, nature-derived anti- ageing products, potentially unlocking new applications in the field of sustainable, bioactive-based cosmetics.
The end of retinol? AI says no! With the emergence of SIRT1 activators, one might wonder whether retinol is becoming obsolete. However, MeNow’s AI-driven research suggests otherwise. Rather than replacing retinol, these newly discovered SIRT1 activators could be the key to enhancing its efficacy and creating even more powerful anti-ageing formulations. Using AI-powered synergy analysis,
MeNow tested the combination of one of the most potent pernolipids from Phaeolepiota aurea and retinol, revealing a 24% synergy for extracellular matrix (ECM) preservation. This suggests a cooperative effect between SIRT1 and retinoic pathways, leading to better collagen maintenance and skin structure integrity (Figure 3B). Even more striking, the AI predicted a 32%
synergy for overall anti-ageing effects, showing that when these two powerful molecules are combined, they enhance each other’s benefits rather than compete (Figure 3B). The activation
of SIRT1 enhances retinol’s effect, leading to longer-lasting and amplified skin rejuvenation with potentially reduced irritation. Rather than replacing retinol, these new
SIRT1 activators could become the perfect partner in advanced skin care formulations, giving retinol the ultimate boost of youth it needs to remain an essential part of modern skin care.
Strigolactones from Sorghum bicolor: SIRT 1 activation with a touch of sustainability MeNow AI did not stop at mushrooms. It also identified four powerful SIRT1-activating molecules from Sorghum bicolor (also known as great millet), a staple crop widely cultivated in Africa, Asia, and parts of the Americas. Traditionally, it has been used as a dietary grain, an essential source of nutrition, and even for brewing beverages. Beyond food applications, sorghum plays a role in biofuel production, where millions of tons of biomass, including stalks and roots, are generated annually as waste.8 The roots of sorghum, in particular, contain
high concentrations of bioactive compounds, yet they remain largely unutilized. MeNow AI’s analysis suggests that upcycling these agricultural byproducts could yield potent SIRT1-activating extracts, transforming discarded roots into high-value skin care ingredients. By leveraging AI-driven sustainability strategies, the beauty industry can repurpose tons of sorghum waste, reducing environmental impact while unlocking new frontiers in anti-ageing skin care. Each year, approximately 3 million metric
tons of sorghum roots are discarded as agricultural waste. Instead of decomposing and contributing to environmental degradation, these biomass leftovers can be harnessed for high-value bioactive extraction. Utilizing these roots for skin care formulations not only
June 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Predicted Affinity
Curcumin Luteolin Resveratrol
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