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Volume 26 Issue 6 WWW.PERSONALCAREMAGAZINE.COM


CONTENTS


3


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REGULARS 5 6 9


Editor’s Comment


Cover Story: Lipoid Kosmetik News


88 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers


FEATURES


16 Interview: Fit for the future Ahead of the New York Society of Cosmetic


Chemists Suppliers’ Day trade show in New York City on 3-4 June, editor Tim Probert caught up with John Carola, co-founder of US-based personal care ingredients distributor Katonah Chemical and the current chair of the NYSCC


21 The science behind gut health


and clear skin Novel topical formulations respectful of the skin microbiome paired with supplements targeting the gut microbiome could be skin care’s future, explain Dejour Waite and Giorgio Dell’Acqua of the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists


25 AI: cracking the code of youth By identifying bioactive molecules in agricultural byproducts, argues Tel Aviv-based software developer MeNow, artificial intelligence is pushing the cosmetics industry towards circular economy principles, minimizing waste and maximizing resource efficiency


31 Longevity: contemporary vision


of anti-ageing Silab proposes a strategic selection of its active ingredients, demonstrating its expertise concerning the biological mechanisms involved in chronological ageing and assists brands in the development of their cutting- edge skin care products


37 Automated techniques for sample


production British technology and innovation social enterprise CPI (Centre for Process Innovation) describes a project that proves automated techniques can produce similar results for cosmetic sampling production to those produced via classical benchtop techniques


43 How to control the emulsification 69 Defying photodamage with white


process Achieving stable, high-performing clean-label emulsions remains a complex challenge, it is one the industry can meet through careful process control. While ingredients play a significant role in regular cosmetics formulations, as VMI explains, the process itself is equally crucial


49 Making anti-ageing more


consumer-relevant CLR describes a cosmetic active ingredient for maintaining and regaining skin’s youthful and attractive appearance by harnessing the extreme natural adaptivity of Galdieria, or red algae


55 Navigating the future of ageing care The skin care industry is redefining ageing care, moving beyond wrinkle reduction to a holistic focus on long-term skin health. Science- driven innovations, AI-powered personalisation and sustainability, says Oat Cosmetics, are transforming the landscape, shifting the emphasis


from correction to prevention 59 Spotless standards: mastering


contamination Ecolab Life Sciences explains how personal care and cosmetic products can be produced in an environment free from contamination - essential to the health and safety of the consumer


64 Cold-process conditioner:


the future of hair care SNF presents what it claims to be a groundbreaking approach to hair care formulation that aligns seamlessly with the industry’s evolving focus on sustainability without compromising on performance


cocoa peptides The prevention of skin photodamage induced by solar radiation is a major expectation in the sun care and day care categories, leading to a rising demand for products that provide more than just UV protection. Ashland describes an active derived from white cocoa to defy photodamage


75 Sun care: the power of Vigna radiata Innovacos presents a water-soluble sun care ingredient obtained through an innovative cold-process vacuolar extraction from plant stem cells. This method enables the isolation of bioactive components without the use of solvents or enzymes, preserving their full biological potential


80 Sustainable trio of sensory SPF


booster solutions Natura-Tec describes three sun care ingredients that reduce the use of synthetic UV filters through natural SPF boosters that pave the way for a new generation of high- performance and natural solutions


83 Biobased elastomer gel: a new


generation Momentive Performance Materials introduces a 100% naturally derived elastomer gel, which has been engineered to provide equivalent performance to silicone elastomer gels whilst being compatible with natural and naturally derived lipids, UV filters and other polar materials


16 55 83 37


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