HAIR CARE The cold-process formulation with only
2% active PQ33-starch emulsion and 4% CCST demonstrated comparable wet combability results on damaged Caucasian hair when compared to a hot-process, simple conditioner containing BTAC, fatty alcohol and an emulsifier.
Curl definition PQ33-starch emulsion has also been evaluated for its ability to enhance curl definition and reduce frizz in curly hair. A quantitative study demonstrated that this innovative conditioning agent effectively reduced hair frizz and improved the definition of curls. The test was conducted on virgin curly hair (type III) using a Bolero imaging system made by Bossa Nova Vision. In this test, the formulation containing
PQ33-starch emulsion was applied to the curly hair (0.2g/g hair – one application). The hair was then dried for one hour at 50°C and placed in a climatic chamber with 80% humidity. The total volume of the hair - comprising bulk volume and flyaway frizz - was measured at three time points: immediately after application (T=0), two hours after application (T=2h), and 24 hours after application (T=24h). After 24 hours, the results clearly indicated that the PQ33-starch emulsion helped maintain curl definition and minimize frizz better than a formulation containing BTAC. The curly hair treated with PQ33-starch emulsion showed improved curl retention and less frizz after being exposed to high humidity, highlighting its superior performance in maintaining the quality and structure of curls over time.
Thermal protection Heat styling tools such as hair dryers, straightening and curling irons are commonly used for hair styling but can cause significant damage to the hair if not properly protected. This damage occurs primarily due to the high temperatures generated by these tools, which can exceed 230°C. When hair is exposed to these extreme
Total surface (cm2
40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
) Boléro
-60% -65% -70% -75% -80% -85% -90% -95%
-100% ΔW
65
-81% -84%
Mean±std N=3
2% Natursol EMI REV + 4% Caprylic Capric Succinic Triglyceride
Figure 2: Combing measurement, mean ± std N=3
temperatures, the keratin - a key structural protein in the hair - undergoes structural changes that weaken its integrity. Specifically, when the temperature exceeds 140°C, α-keratin transforms into β-keratin, making the hair more fragile and brittle. If the temperature exceeds 230°C, this transformation is irreversible, leading to the breakage of disulfide bridges, which are essential for maintaining the strength and elasticity of the hair fibres. To evaluate the thermal protection provided
by PQ33-starch emulsion, a Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) analysis was conducted by Kosmoscience. In this test, a 2% active PQ33-starch emulsion in water was applied to virgin Caucasian hair tresses (0.2g product/g of hair). Following the treatment, the hair tresses underwent two different thermal treatments: dry blowing at 95°C and straightening with a flat iron at 230°C (with three passes). The treated hair fibres were then collected for DSC analysis, using the Hitachi High-
Tech Sciences TA7000 Series simultaneous Thermogravimetric Analyzer, which measures changes in the thermal properties of the hair from 30°C to 300°C. One of the key parameters measured in this
analysis is the denaturation enthalpy (ΔHD), which quantifies the energy required to alter the structure of keratin. A higher ΔHD value indicates better thermal
protection, as it reflects the hair’s ability to resist heat-induced damage. The results demonstrated that the PQ33-
starch emulsion provided thermal protection that was comparable to a Brazilian benchmark product claiming thermal protection. With only 2% of the PQ33-starch emulsion
in water, hair is protected from heat, achieving performance equivalent to a benchmark containing over 50 ingredients, including BTMS and silicone (Figure 4).
Hair moisturization Moisturization is one of the primary expectations consumers have when using hair care products. Healthy, hydrated hair tends to be more manageable, easier to comb, and appears shinier. The key to achieving moisturized hair is to ensure the retention of water within the hair fibres, preventing dehydration and enhancing the overall appearance of the hair. The moisturizing potential of PQ33-starch
T=0 T=2h T=24h Aqua (negative control)
2% BTAC +4% cetearyl alcohol +1.6% glyceryl stearate
2% Natursol™ EMI REV +5% CCST
emulsion was assessed through a DSC analysis performed by Kosmoscience. This technique measures Water Vaporization Enthalpy (ΔHvap water), which indicates the energy required to transform a given amount of water into vapor. The higher the ΔHvap value, the better the moisture retention capacity of the product. For the test, a 2% solution of PQ33-starch
T= 24h
emulsion was applied to bleached Caucasian hair tresses (0.2g product/g of hair). After the treatment, the hair tresses were left to dry for 24 hours at 22°C and 55% relative humidity. The hair fibres were then collected for DSC
Figure 3: Bolero Test, mean ± std N=5. CCST: Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
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analysis using the Hitachi High-Tech Sciences TA7000 Series simultaneous Thermogravimetric Analyzer, which measured the moisture
June 2025 PERSONAL CARE 2% BTAC + 4% cetearyl
alcohol +1.6% glyceryl stearate
Total surface (cm2
)
The lower, the better
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