84 NATURALS
technology evolved into gels, where the silicone elastomers were swollen in various solvents.9 Silicone elastomer gels are created by
combining crosslinked silicone polymers with a 3D network structure and a silicone fluid or other lipids. Traditionally silicone fluids such as cyclomethicone were used but more recent generations have seen naturally derived alkanes widely employed. The crosslinked silicone polymer is synthesized through the hydrosilylation reaction, where a silane hydrogen polymer (Si-H) reacts with a divinyl polymer via solvent or emulsion polymerization. The crosslinked silicone polymer can function as a thickener for oil-based systems and W/O emulsions where it imparts a degree of structural viscosity. In gels where a hydrophilic group is incorporated into the crosslinking portion of the network, the resulting product can function as a water-in- oil (W/O) emulsifier. Unlike traditional emulsifiers, it effectively
stabilizes emulsions with a wider particle size distribution, which is crucial for achieving a light and fresh skin feel. Additionally, its stabilization mechanism enables emulsification with low shear, eliminating the need for homogenization. Elastomer gels with a crosslinked silicone polymer structure containing alkyl chains in their molecular structure demonstrate good compatibility with non-polar, hydrocarbon oils, such as alkanes and isoalkanes. Silicone elastomer gels are a powerful
tool for enhancing skin aesthetics, providing noticeable differences when comparing product formulations where the inclusion of the elastomer is the only variable. They offer the visible benefit of soft focus and blurring properties that enables wrinkle masking and pore coverage making silicone elastomers ideal for consumers regardless their age. In addition, elastomer gels offer a unique
soft silky sensory, powdery feel and a cushioned effect. Functionally they can be used to support pigment dispersion, active ingredient delivery, and film formation. These qualities make them highly valuable in a variety of colour cosmetic and skin care applications.
Naturally derived elastomer gel technology The new natural elastomer gel is comprised of a 100% biobased polyester in a 3D network structure, dispersed in the 100% naturally derived emollients squalane and coco- caprylate/caprylate, it has been engineered to replicate the luxurious feel of silicone elastomer gels. The crosslinked polyester network is synthesized using 100% plant-based fatty acids and polyols as naturally derived building blocks. Its medium-polarity polymer network,
featuring a balanced combination of polar ester bonds and non-polar alkyl chains, makes the biobased elastomer gel highly compatible with natural oils, natural waxes, esters, ethers, UV filters and other polar materials. The elastomer gel swells in the oil phase,
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Figure 1: Blurring evaluation of sample formulation with different concentrations of the biobased elastomer gel compared to control. Note: Results obtained under laboratory conditions. It is recommended that performance is confirmed with additional formulations/trials
Carbon footprint data for the material
TABLE 1: EXPERIMENTAL CHASSIS FORMULATION Ingredient %
Control test
Biobased elastomer gel Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Water (Aqua)
0 3 5 10 20 30 27 25 20 10
3 3 3 3 3 67 67 67 67 67
Note: Sample formulas should not be used to create product specifications
creating a robust 3D network that adds structure and optimizes pigment dispersion in the formulation. When exposed to shear forces, the polymer entanglements in the biobased elastomer gel break and have less time to resist deformation, resulting in a reduction in viscosity. It allows manufacturers to create formulas that are easy to apply, while maintaining the desired texture, stability, and performance in the final product. Once the shear force is removed, the gel
thickens back to its original, more viscous state, ensuring it stays in place and delivers long- lasting benefits without feeling greasy or heavy. This shear-thinning behaviour also makes the naturally derived elastomer easy to handle during production where it can be processed hot or cold and under high or low shear.
The Twelve Principles of Green Chemistry The Twelve Principles of Green Chemistry can be used to guide developments of new chemical processes.10
In line with these
principles, the 100% naturally derived elastomer gel is manufactured entirely from plant-based feedstocks, the palm derived components are from an RSPO certified supply chain, and the commercial material will be available as RSPO certified, all feedstocks are vegan and GMO free. The production process for the gel requires
no catalyst or volatile solvents and the only by-product is water. All materials throughout the process are benign and the gel has been shown to biodegrade. (OECD 301B/F)
confirms that the naturally derived elastomer gel can support cosmetic manufacturers working to reduce their carbon footprint compared to historical silicone-based references. Considering the requirements of ISO 16128 the natural elastomer gel has a natural origin index (NOI) of 1.
Biobased elastomer performance The plant derived elastomer gel provides
proof that biobased materials can deliver the same high-performance benefits as historical silicone and synthetic materials. It offers a soft- focus effect while mattifying the skin to reduce shine.
The sensory experience is luxurious as it absorbs quickly, reduces oiliness, and delivers a soft, powdery-dry, cushioned skin feel. In addition, it brings functional benefits for the formulator, supporting stabilisation of W/O emulsions and helping to disperse and suspend pigments and powders. A series of experiments were performed
to confirm that performance attributes of the biobased elastomer gel in the laboratory. A simple inverse emulsion chassis was created to evaluate different inclusion levels. A 5ml film of each emulsion was drawn
down onto a clear substrate using an automated applicator. The film was allowed to dry for 30 minutes before evaluation. Soft focus and line blurring could be clearly demonstrated from low inclusion levels with the blurring increasing with increasing concentrations, as shown in Figure 1. Visual results were confirmed by an increase in diffuse transmission measured using a Color-eye 7000A from X-rite of over 24% at an inclusion level of 20%. Using the same experimental emulsion, it
was possible to demonstrate the mattifying effects of the naturally derived elastomer gel. Some 2 mg/cm2
of the emulsion was applied to
the subject’s forearm and the formulation was completely rubbed in. A Skin-Glossymeter was used to measure
the performance. With increasing levels of gel, a reduction in gloss and an increase in matte finish could be seen, images of skin topography
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