NATURALS Control 20%
85
Figure 2: Mattifying effect evaluation of sample formulation with 20% of the biobased elastomer gel, skin smoothing images using Visioscan by Courage+Khazaka. (Note: Results obtained under laboratory conditions. It is recommended that performance is confirmed with additional formulations/ trials)
using the Visioscan by Courage-Khazaka also demonstrated an increase in skin smoothness. Further studies were conducted to confirm the benefits of the plant derived elastomer in powder and pigment wetting and dispersion.
Formulating with the naturally derived elastomer The naturally derived elastomer gel can be used to create unique new cosmetic formulations, providing an anhydrous chassis base and supporting the creation of multi- functional products. By addition of UV filters, pigments, and lipophilic actives a wide range of systems can be created such as primers with SPF, mousse foundations, or three-in-one products offering soft focus, colour and SPF benefits. Alternatively, it can be used as an additive
to emulsion, solid and semi solid formulations from about 3% being particularly efficacious in products where the oil phase is in direct contact to the skin. It is easy to handle and can be processed hot or cold and added with cowls blade mixers or homogenisation.
Anhydrous formulations The bio-derived elastomer gel can be used to develop primer formulations with equivalent performance to existing silicone elastomer gel products. Here, the primer formulation can be considered to be a three-component system, with the elastomer gel, a light, polar emollient oil, and a secondary stabiliser. In the formulation in Table 2 an oil absorbing silica from rice is used but other materials that can be considered include starches such as corn and tapioca and mineral additives like diatomaceous earth.
SPF primers Invisible gel sunscreens are becoming increasingly popular in the market following the launch of “Unseen Sunscreen SPF30”
www.personalcaremagazine.com B
TABLE 2: NATURAL BEAUTY PRIMER FORMULATION. Trade Name
INCI Name
Harmonie NatuVel gel Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/ Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer (and) Squalane
Cetiol C 5C Rice Silk SN
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Silica (Oryza Sativa Hull Powder)
Note: Sample formulas should not be used to create product specifications Suppliers: 1. Momentive 2. BASF 3. AQIA
TABLE 3: CRYSTAL SUNSCREEN STICK (CALCULATED SPF 35) SUN-009-24-YL-PR. Phase Trade Name A
INCI Name
Parsol 1789 Parsol EHS Parsol 340 Parsol HMS
AJK-OD2046 Dermol 25B
LexFilm Sun
LexFeel N5 MB Cetiol C 5C
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Homosalate
Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (and) Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide (and) Octyldodecanol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Polyester-7 (and) Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
C Harmonie NatuVel gel Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate D Rice Silk SN
Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer (and) Squalane Silica (Oryza Sativa Hull Powder)
Note: Sample formulas should not be used to create product specification Suppliers: 1. DSM-Firmenich 2. Ajinomoto 3. Alzo International 4. Inolex 5. BASF 6. Momentive 7. AQIA
from Supergoop! in addition to a rise in clear sunscreen sticks such as Shiseido “Clear Sunscreen Stick SPF50+”. Sunscreen sticks allow for the targeted
application of sunscreens to parts of the body of high risk of burning such as ears, noses and shoulders. The benefits of the biobased
elastomer gel can be clearly demonstrated in such formulations. In sensory panel tests the clear sunscreen
stick was compared with and without the natural elastomer. In the control formulation the balance was made up with Coco- Caprylate/Caprate.
June 2025 PERSONAL CARE SPLR % w/w 1
2 3
64.00 34.00
2.00
Procedure: Combine the Harmonie NatuVel gel with the Cetiol C 5C and mix. Slowly add the Rice SN with a cowls blade mixer and stir until homogenous.
SPLR % w/w 1 1 1 1
3.00 5.00
10.00 10.00
2 3
4 4 5 6 7
10.00 5.00
10.00 13.00 10.00 30.00 2.00
Procedure: Combine Phase A and heat to 90°C. Mix until everything has dissolved and homogenous. Remove from heat and add phase B. Mix until homogenous. Slowly add Phase C and mix until fully incorporated. Slowly add phase D and mix until fully incorporated. Pour into moulds.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92
