MANUFACTURE
How to control the emulsification process
Nesrin Hesso, Mélanie Gay - VMI
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As the demand for transparent and sustainable cosmetics grows, the Clean-Beauty trend— encompassing products labeled as natural, organic, non-toxic, and chemical-free—is becoming increasingly popular among consumers. For manufacturers, one of the most
significant challenges when adopting clean- label formulations is preserving essential product quality—such as texture, colour, droplets size or stability and viscosity— while eliminating synthetic ingredients and chemicals. Emulsions are key to creating a range of
products, including milks, creams, balms, make-up, and hair care, providing the creamy texture and ease of application consumers expect. However, mastering the emulsification process can be challenging. Regular emulsions rely heavily on
emulsifiers to ensure quality and stability. When synthetic emulsifiers are replaced with natural alternatives, maintaining the desired performance becomes more difficult. However, it is possible to achieve good stability and quality through precise control over the emulsification process. This article explores the challenges of
clean-label emulsification and emphasizes the importance of process optimization in meeting consumer expectations without compromising on performance or quality.
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Understanding emulsions in cosmetics An emulsion is a visually homogeneous mixture obtained from two non-miscible liquids (water/oil), often stabilized by emulsifiers to create a uniform and stable product. During the mixing, one phase will be dispersed into fine droplets in the second phase.
An emulsion is composed of: ■ An aqueous phase, of one or more aqueous elements (distilled water, solvents… ) ■ An oil phase, made of one or more oils (vegetable oils, vegetable butters, waxes…) Emulsions can be categorized into: ■ Oil-in-Water (O/W) Emulsions: Tiny droplets of oil are dispersed within a continuous water phase, offering a lightweight and hydrating texture. ■ Water-in-Oil (W/O) Emulsions: Water droplets are dispersed within a continuous oil phase, delivering richer, more moisturizing formulations. ■ Multiple Emulsions: These combine both O/W and W/O phases for more complex applications, often enhancing stability and controlled release of active ingredients. The important and essential constituent
of the emulsions is the emulsifier which can be added during the production and mixing process to one of the phases. The emulsifiers, which help stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers can be chemical or natural.
Importance of emulsion stability and impact on final product Emulsions, by nature, are unstable solutions. The key to creating a successful emulsion is ensuring its stability, as a stable emulsion will remain homogeneous over time. Emulsion stability is defined by three key conditions: 1.) no phase separation (de-mixing), 2.) no chemical reactions, and 3.) no microbiological reactions. To achieve a stable emulsion, several factors must be in place. First, both the aqueous and oil phase should be well-distributed, with homogeneous droplets that have a small diameter. Additionally, the dispersing phase must have high viscosity to prevent instability. The overall stability and performance of emulsions are influenced by droplet size, emulsifier choice, and process parameters. In clean-label formulations, these factors require careful management, as natural emulsifiers typically have lower functionality compared to their synthetic counterparts. The properties of an emulsion have a
significant impact on the final product’s performance and user experience. Texture: The texture of the emulsion
is influenced by the droplet size and the emulsifier concentration. These factors determine the viscosity of the mixture, which can range from the fluid consistency of milk to the thick, rich feel of cream or mousse. This variation is important in creating products with the desired tactile sensation.
June 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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