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SUN CARE


Sun care: the power of Vigna radiata


Ambra Mozzali, Valeria Quaranta, Jacopo Amari – Innovacos ABSTRACT


This article presents Plant C-Stem™ Vigna Radiata, a water-soluble active ingredient obtained through an innovative cold-process vacuolar extraction from plant stem cells. This method enables the isolation of bioactive components without the use of solvents or enzymes, preserving their full biological potential. In vitro studies have demonstrated that the


vacuolar extract of Vigna radiata effectively reduces ROS production and oxidative stress in human keratinocytes exposed to blue light and infrared radiation, while in vivo tests confirmed its soothing effect on UV-induced erythema and its role as an SPF booster. Thanks to its broad-spectrum protective


activity, Plant C-Stem™ Vigna Radiata is a key natural ingredient for sun care formulations and anti-ageing treatments, as it contrasts photoageing, helping to preserve skin health and protect it from the damages of sun exposure


Sun exposure is an integral part of daily life. Throughout history, the sun has played a crucial role in shaping human civilizations and influencing various aspects of life. In ancient cultures, sunlight was often associated with divine forces and revered as a symbol of life and vitality. Its warmth and light were essential for agriculture, for crop growth and seasonal cycles. Additionally, sunlight naturally regulates daily routines and work schedules, acting as a fundamental timekeeping mechanism. Reflected and filtered by the atmosphere,


only part of sunlight reaches the Earth’s surface. This radiation can induce harmful effects on human skin, including sunburn, oxidative stress, immunosuppression, photoageing, and carcinogenesis. It is generally believed that ultraviolet (UV) radiation is primarily responsible for these adverse effects, so researchers have traditionally focused on studying products capable of countering UV rays, often ignoring other wavelengths.1 The UV spectrum is divided into UVA (λ =


320−400nm), UVB (λ = 280−320nm), and UVC (λ = 100nm 280nm). UVC are completely absorbed


by the ozone layer, so they do not reach the Earth’s surface.2


UVB rays are responsible for erythema and sunburn, while UVA rays www.personalcaremagazine.com


penetrate deep into the dermis, causing oxidative stress, inflammation, and premature skin ageing. The UV dose is influenced by the source of irradiation, season, latitude, time of day, atmospheric pollutants, and the thickness of the ozone layer.3 Even during winter or cloudy months, UV


rays can penetrate through clouds and cause skin damage. Therefore, applying products that reduce sun damage should be a consistent practice regardless of weather conditions. However, recent studies have shown that


infrared radiation may also have a profound role in inflammation and photoageing. Infrared radiation is further subdivided into IRA (760– 1440nm), IRB (1440–3000nm), IRC (3000nm– 1mm). Most of the IR radiation lies within the IRA band, which deeply penetrates the human skin, while IRB and IRC only affect the upper skin layers. In comparison, IRA penetrates better than UV into the skin, with approximately 50% reaching the dermis. Taken together, IRA disturbs the collagen equilibrium of the skin in two ways: by increasing the amount/activity of MMP-1, which results in an increased collagen degradation, and by decreasing de novo synthesis of collagen,4


which


cause the degradation of dermal connective tissue, resulting in wrinkle formation.


Finally, blue light (450−495nm), has lower


energy compared to UV radiation and can penetrate more deeply into the dermis, up to a depth of 1mm. It exerts its direct effects on the skin by interacting with chromophores, which causes a transition from an inactive state to an active one.


Reactive oxygen species The activation of these molecules leads to an overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the release of reactive nitrogen species, such as nitric oxide (NO). In addition to directly affecting the skin, blue light, including that from electronic devices, can also have indirect effects on the body by altering the normal circadian rhythm and, therefore, negatively affecting skin repair processes during the night.5 ROS are highly reactive chemical species


containing oxygen and mitochondria are the major sources of ROS at the cellular level. ROS mainly include superoxide anion, hydrogen peroxide, and hydroxyl radical. They are normally formed by oxygen metabolism and play an important role in cell signalling and homeostasis. However, environmental stresses (such as UV rays, IR, and heat) can cause oxidative stress, which is an increase in ROS levels causing cellular damage.


June 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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