32 ANTI-AGEING Synthesis of NAD+
160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
(nM)
Old keratinocytes ***
** * 135 125 113 35% 152
160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control
& Hydrolyzed Myrtus
Communis Leaf Extract
0.01% Water
0.05% Water & Hydrolyzed Myrtus
Communis Leaf Extract
& Hydrolyzed Myrtus
Communis Leaf Extract
Result(s)/old Keratinocytes control: ***p<0.001 ---**:p<0.01
Figure 1: Effect of the Water & Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract on the synthesis of NAD+ H2
O2 stress
oxidation and boosts the production of cellular energy in the epidermis, at the same time as improving the quality of the dermal matrix. As of 14 days of treatment, these effects
are shown by remarkable benefits to the face and body: the skin of Caucasian and Asian volunteers is smoothed, and complexion radiance is revived. In addition, after 28 days, the skin is more elastic and firmer, and wrinkles are attenuated (Figure 2). These benefits are perceived by the
Caucasian volunteers themselves: all of them judged their skin to be smoother (body) and more luminous (face) and 95% of them considered this active ingredient to be an anti- wrinkle care product. Silab developed Longevicell® by making
optimal use of the oligogalacturonides in myrtle leaves. Native to the Mediterranean Basin, myrtle is a shrub appreciated for centuries for its capacity to glorify beauty. In antiquity, Greco-Romans in particular used the essential oil of myrtle to prepare
a floral water with the capacity of restoring freshness and youth to the complexion. With concern for the sustainability of its supply chains, Silab has selected Moroccan suppliers certified for organic agriculture. A control audit conducted by Silab on the different steps used to produce the raw material has validated its quality and ensures traceability back to the harvest site.
Intercellular communication Silab has also investigated communication between the dermal and epidermal compart- ments in the course of ageing. This involved implementing a novel modeling study in vitro. Initially, mediators of dermis-epidermis communication were mapped, showing the major role of the proteome, of the expression of miRNAs in extracellular vesicles (including exosomes) and of the IGF-1/IGF-1R pathway (Figure 3). It was then shown that these mediators were
deregulated in the course of ageing, causing a communication shortfall responsible for an
D0, before treatment
alteration of the biological functions of the epidermis. In light of these findings, Silab developed
an active ingredient that can regulate the molecular players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis and therefore capable of reactivating biological functions of the epidermis (Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate). The secretome of aged fibroblasts treated with the Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate at 0.4% significantly improves proliferation and cell cohesion, keratinocyte differentiation, hydration and the anchoring of keratinocytes to the dermal-epidermal junction. In a mature Caucasian panel, these results
were manifested in vivo by positive effects on the renewal of the epidermis and its thickness, determined by non-invasive optical biopsies. The skin of Caucasian and Asian volunteers is thus better hydrated and complexion radiance is enhanced (Figure 4). Based on its expertise on the optimal use of natural peptides, the company chose to
D28, after treatment with 2% Water & Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
0.10% Water *** 113 95 122 Synthesis of NAD+
Fibroblasts subject to an H2 (nM)
** 147 55% O2 stress
Control
& Hydrolyzed Myrtus
Communis Leaf Extract
0.01% Water
0.05% Water & Hydrolyzed Myrtus
Communis Leaf Extract
& Hydrolyzed Myrtus
Communis Leaf Extract
Result(s)/fibroblasts subjected to an H2 O2 stress control: ***: p<0.001 ---**: p<0.01 ---*: p<0.05 by aged keratinocytes and fibroblasts subjected to an
0.10% Water
Depth of wrinkles: ++ PERSONAL CARE June 2025
Depth of wrinkles: + Figure 2: Visualization of the effect of the Water & Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract on the depth of crow’s feet wrinkles of Caucasian volunteers
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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