96 FORMULATING
showing positive responses for surface roughness metrics (Spa and Spq).
Firmness and viscoelasticity Cutometer measurements demonstrated a tangible improvement in the skin’s biomechanical properties. At Day 84, the parameter Uf (final distension) decreased significantly by 11% (p<0.05). A decrease in Uf indicates that the skin
has become more resistant to mechanical deformation, an indication for improved firmness. Concurrently, the ratio Uv/Ue (viscoelasticity rate) increased significantly by 25% (p<0.05), suggesting a restoration of the skin’s elastic component and a reduction of cutaneous laxity (Figure 2).
Complexion radiance and homogeneity The analysis of skin colour parameters provided insight into the product’s ability to enhance radiance. After just 14 days, there was a statistically significant increase in skin lightness (L*) (+0.84%) and the individual whitening angle (IWA°) (+0.63%), alongside a decrease in skin pigmentation degree (ITA°). This suggests a rapid onset of the ‘brightening’ effect and luminosity (Figure 3,4). By Day 84, a significant decrease in the b*
parameter (yellowness) was observed (-3.85%). Reducing the yellow component of the skin contributes significantly to the perception of a fresher, less dull complexion (Figure 3). Interestingly, the study noted a significant
decrease in contrast gloss (Gc) at both D14 (-2.75%) and D84 (-2.34%). This indicates a mattifying effect, where the visibility of oily shine is reduced, contributing to a more even and refined skin appearance. The instrumental data was corroborated by
high subject satisfaction. At the conclusion of the study (D84), 91% of subjects stated they would use the product again. The product was judged as ‘Good to Very Good’ for cosmetic acceptability and anti-ageing efficacy by 100% of the panel. Specifically, 88% of subjects agreed that their
skin looked smoother, and 81% agreed their skin looked more radiant.
Conclusion The stabilization of high-potency retinol represents a significant challenge in cosmetic formulation, one that liquid vehicles struggle to address effectively. Lyophilization technology offers a scientifically robust solution. By locking the active ingredient within a vitrified, solid-state matrix of mannitol, degradation pathways are thermodynamically arrested. The ‘Lyophilized Bead’ format not only ensures
the stability of the active until the moment of use but also enables the creation of preservative-free formulations that align with modern consumer expectations. The clinical data presented for Retin+ beads
validates this approach: the preservation of retinol potency translated directly into measurable clinical benefits, including significant skin smoothing, firming, and radiance enhancement over a 12-week period.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE March 2026 Day 0 Mean ■ Day 14 Mean ■ Day 84 Mean ■
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
vs D0:
D14: +4.81% (S) D84: +4.75% (S)
70.09 vs D0:
D14: +0.63% (S) D84: +0.61% (S)
70.53 70.52
33.45
35.06
35.04
Pigmentation Angle (ITA)
Whiteness (IWA Newtone) Figure 3: Pigmentation angle (ITA) and individual whitening angle (IWA) at D0, D14 and D84 Day 0 Mean ■ Day 14 Mean ■ Day 84 Mean ■
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
vs D0:
D14: +0.84% (S) D84: +0.52% (NS)
61.48 62.00 61.80 vs D0:
D14: -0.87% (NS) D84: +0.55% (S)
vs D0:
D14: -1.76% (NS) D84: -3.85% (S)
13.66
13.54
13.73
16.35
16.06
15.72
Luminosity (L*)
Redness (a*) Figure 4: Luminosity, redness and yellowness at D0, D14 and D84
References 1. Joshi S, Jindal P, Gautam S et al. Mini review on the lyophilization: a basic requirement for formulation development and stability modifier. Assay Drug Dev Technol. 2025;23(4):180-94
2. Samyuktha A, Ramesh, Chandra Y, Penabaka V. A review of lyophilization. GSC Biol Pharm Sci. 2025;30(2):7-21.
3. Taldaev A, Pankov DI, Terekhov RP, Zhevlakova AK, Selivanova IA. Modification of the physicochemical properties of active pharmaceutical ingredients via lyophilization. Pharmaceutics. 2023;15(11):2607
4. Baheti A, Lokesh K, Bansal A. Excipients used in lyophilization of small molecules. J Excip Food Chem. 2010;1
PCM
5. Nowak D, Jakubczyk E. The freeze-drying of foods: the characteristic of the process course and the effect of its parameters on the physical properties of food materials. Foods. 2020; Oct
18;9(10):1488
6. Karel M, Fennema OR, Lund DB. Principles of food science: part II, physical principles of food preservation. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc.; 1975
7. Yi Z, Yang M, Liu B. Stabilization of labile active ingredients in an oil-water emulsion cosmetics by freeze-drying. Cryoletters. 2023;44:76-9
8. Maggadani BP, Rahmayati R, Rukmana TI, Mulyadi CA. Retinol stability in anti-aging face serum post-opening period. Int J Appl Pharm. 2024
9. Chmykh YG, Nadeau JL. Characterization of retinol stabilized in phosphatidyl-choline vesicles with and without antioxidants. ACS Omega. 2020; Jul 10;5(29):18367-75
10. Luo WC, Beringhs A, Kim R, Zhang W, Patel S, Bogner R et al. Impact of formulation on the quality and stability of freeze-dried nanoparticles. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2021;169
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Yellowness (b*)
Mean Value
Mean Value
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