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SKIN CARE 53


TABLE 4: CONCENTRATION-DEPENDENT STABILIZATION OF ZNO SUSPENSIONS BY SURFACTIN ZnO (F1)


ZnO+0.1 %SF (F2) ZnO+0.2 %SF (F3) ZnO+0.3 %SF (F4)


ZnO+0.4 %SF (F5)


ZnO+0.5 %SF (F6)


ZnO+1% SF (F7)


The surfactin-containing TiO2


formulation


(Formula 20) was compared with its control (Formula 19) with respect to spreadability, light texture, absorption rate, white cast, and non- sticky afterfeel. Sensory attributes were scored on a 10-point scale, with higher scores indicating superior performance.


Results Powder dispersibility test in aqueous solution The stabilizing effect of surfactin on ZnO particle dispersion is presented in Table 4. The 10% ZnO formulation in aqueous medium showed limited dispersion capability, with particles accumulating at the air-liquid interface and exhibiting persistent phase separation upon standing. In contrast, the incorporation of surfactin substantially improved the suspension stability. As the surfactin concentration increased,


a progressive enhancement in dispersion homogeneity was observed. A complete and stable suspension was achieved at a surfactin concentration of 1% (w/w), with no visible sedimentation over 24 hours. This finding indicates that surfactin effectively functions as a dispersion stabilizer for ZnO in aqueous systems.


Particle size analysis As shown in Table V, surfactin incorporation significantly reduced the particle size of both TiO2 and ZnO suspensions, as reflected by their median diameters (D50). The D50 of TiO2


decreased from 84.8 μm to


50 40 30 20 10 0


0 0.2


Surfactin concentration (%) 0.6


0.4 Figure 1: Modulation of ZnO particle size by surfactin concentration www.personalcaremagazine.com 0.8 1


TABLE 5: REDUCTION IN PARTICLE SIZE OF PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN SUSPENSIONS BY SURFACTIN INCORPORATION


Groups


20%ZnO (F8)


20%ZnO +0.1%SF (F9)


20%ZnO +0.5%SF (F10)


20%ZnO +1%SF (F11)


20%TiO2 (F12)


20%TiO2 +1%SF (F13)


D10 (µm) 0.215 0.132 0.13 0.091 1.64 1.48 D50 (µm) 45.2 1.01 0.249 0.276 84.8 8.07 D90 (µm) 180 12.6 0.881 1.44 1.79 37.8


8.07 μm, representing a 90% reduction, while that of ZnO was reduced from 45.2 μm to 0.276 μm, corresponding to a 99% decrease. These results demonstrate that surfactin effectively disrupted the large aggregates of the physical sunscreens, particularly transitioning ZnO into a sub-micron dispersion. The corresponding fitting curve is provided in Figure 1.


In vitro SPF assessment The demonstrated capacity of surfactin to enhance dispersion stability and reduce particle size of physical sunscreens prompted further investigation into its effects on sunscreen performance. As shown in Figure 2, the


formulation protocol significantly influenced SPF enhancement. Co-dispersing ZnO and surfactin in the aqueous phase (Formula 16) yielded the highest SPF value of 31.7, representing a 25% improvement over the surfactin-free ZnO formulation (Formula 14, p < 0.001). This improvement substantially exceeded that achieved with the commercial dispersant SG (Formula 18), which yielded only a 1.6% SPF increase under identical conditions. In contrast, alternative incorporation methods — adding both ZnO and surfactin to the oil phase (Formula 17) or placing them in the oil and aqueous phases, respectively (Formula 15) — yielded only marginal or no SPF improvement. Similarly, addition of surfactin to TiO2


-based


formulations also significantly increased SPF by 12%.


These findings demonstrate that pre-


dispersing both surfactin and physical sunscreen agents in the aqueous phase prior to formulation represents the most effective strategy for maximizing SPF enhancement.


Sensory evaluation Sensory evaluation results are presented in Figure 3. The study demonstrated that surfactin incorporation enhanced the skin-feel characteristics of micronized physical sunscreens. Compared with the formulation containing


the commercial dispersant SG, surfactin-based systems exhibited a lighter texture, faster absorption, superior spreadability (score 8.0 in ZnO formulations), and substantially reduced stickiness and white cast.


Discussion This study demonstrates that surfactin serves as a multifunctional performance enhancer for micron- sized physical UV filters, effectively addressing the long-standing challenges of dispersion instability, inadequate UV protection, and undesirable sensory properties. Our findings reveal that surfactin not only functions as a dispersion stabilizer but also significantly improves sunscreen efficacy and user experience. Surfactin incorporation yielded remarkable


improvement in suspension stability, preventing the particle aggregation and sedimentation that commonly plague micron-sized physical filters formulations, attributable to the amphiphilic molecular structure of surfactin that promotes effective adsorption onto particle surfaces and generates strong electrostatic and steric repulsion


March 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


D50 (µm)


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