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ANTI-AGEING
skin conditions characterized by congestion, blemishes, and uneven tone. Rather than being a mere consequence of such imperfections, oxidative stress, especially when accompanied by subclinical inflammation, may act as an early pathogenic factor contributing to their onset and progression.8,9 Therefore, to effectively support skin under
these multifaceted challenges, a next-generation solution must go beyond basic antioxidant protection. NeoC101TM
, hereafter named diascorbyl
azelate, is an advanced esterified form of Vitamin C combined with Azelaic Acid and is precisely designed to meet this need through a multifunctional, targeted approach. Owing to its unique chemical structure,
diascorbyl azelate imparts enhanced antioxidant potency through three distinct mechanisms.
Enhanced antioxidant potency 1. Direct radical neutralization Diascorbyl azelate functions as a powerful, fast- acting antioxidant, like traditional vitamin C, by directly neutralizing free radicals and reducing oxidative stress. This immediate action helps protect essential
cellular components such as lipids, proteins, and DNA from oxidative damage, supporting healthier, more resilient skin.
2. Support of mitochondrial antioxidant defence Beyond its direct antioxidant action, diascorbyl azelate helps maintain the activity of mitochondrial superoxide dismutase 2 (SOD2), a key enzyme that catalyses the conversion of harmful superoxide radicals into less reactive molecules, providing sustained enzymatic protection at the mitochondrial level.
3. Induction of endogenous cytoprotective pathways Diascorbyl Azelate also promotes the expression of heme oxygenase-1 (HMOX1), an inducible antioxidant enzyme regulated by the NRF2 pathway. HMOX1 contributes to redox balance and
cellular resilience by breaking down pro-oxidant heme and generating antioxidant and anti- inflammatory byproducts such as biliverdin and carbon monoxide. Together, these three pathways provide a
robust and multilayered antioxidant defence, addressing both immediate oxidative insults and longer-term cellular adaptation, making diascorbyl azelate a truly next-generation strategy against oxy-ageing. In addition to its potent antioxidant activity,
diascorbyl azelate also broad-spectrum benefits including photoprotective, anti-inflammatory properties, and skin-balancing benefits, helping to promote a clearer, more even complexion, healthier-looking, particularly for skin prone to breakouts, blemishes, or uneven tone. By simultaneously targeting oxidative stress
and visible skin imbalance, diascorbyl azelate offers a smarter, more holistic solution for skin exposed to both environmental and internal stressors.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE March 2026 Figure 1: DPPH assay of diascorbyl azelate UVB Under high oxidative stress ROS 1 SOD2 O2 •- H2 O2
Biliverdin, Glutathione peroxidase, Catalase... reduce H2
O2 NO into H2 O Neutralize ROS ROS Biliverdin, Bilirubin, CO... Heme H2 O HO-2
100 80 60 40 20 0
92 91 93
NeoC101 ■ Ascorbic Acid ■ 92
25 ppm Diascorbyl Azelate
50 ppm
2 Cytoplasm
HMOX1 Nucleus
Figure 2: The pathway involved in mitigating oxidative stress With its multifunctional profile and
scientifically optimized formulation, diascorbyl azelate stands out as a next-generation active in the fight against oxy-ageing, enhancing skin clarity, radiance, and vitality for a more youthful appearance over time. Ultimately, its effectiveness depends on
thoughtful formulation that preserves ingredient potency and ensures efficient delivery to the skin, offering a comprehensive and forward-thinking approach to long-term skin health.
An oxidative stress solution Diascorbyl azelate tackles oxidative stress through multiple angles, positioning itself as a cutting- edge solution in the fight against oxy-ageing. Diascorbyl azelate demonstrates four powerful anti-ageing benefits.
1. Direct free radical scavenging: the frontline of defence
The primary function of diascorbyl azelate is its ability to neutralize free radicals directly. By donating electrons to stabilize reactive oxygen species (ROS), diascorbyl azelate prevents the chain reactions that lead to cellular damage. This ability is vital to preserve the structural integrity of
HO-1 (encoded by HMOX1 gene)
skin cells and to reduce the oxidative burden that drives ageing. In a DPPH assay, diascorbyl azelate
demonstrates equal potency to pure Vitamin C in scavenging free radicals, establishing it as a potent antioxidant (Figure 1). Free radical scavenging is the frontline defence against oxidative stress and is therefore critical in slowing down the ageing process, as without proper neutralization, oxidative damage to skin cells would exponentially increase, leading to premature ageing.
2. Mitochondrial protection and regulation of antioxidant enzymes Mitochondria are the powerhouse of cells, and oxidative stress significantly impacts their function. Diascorbyl azelate provides mitochondrial protection by upregulating key antioxidant enzymes, such as SOD2 (superoxide dismutase 2) and HMOX1 (heme oxygenase 1). SOD2 catalyses the conversion of superoxide anions (O2-) into hydrogen peroxide (H2
O2
), thus
reducing the initial levels of ROS. This enzymatic pathway prevents the accumulation of highly toxic superoxide species within mitochondria. Diascorbyl azelate has been shown to restore
www.personalcaremagazine.com
% of Radical Scavenging
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