46 SKIN CARE


Figure 1: Schematic representation of the design of the modelling study


skins and the y-axis represented the significance of the statistical tests. This analysis highlighted that the synthesis of 47 lipids was differentially modulated between normal and dry skin (Figure 2).


Study of the lipid matrix structure (conformation and organization) The system is composed of a confocal Raman probe (Horiba Jobin Yvon) coupled with a dispersive Raman spectrometer (LabRam HR Evolution, Horiba Jobin Yvon). A piezoelectric system (Physics Instruments) was used to collect Raman profiles in the z-axis, from the surface down to a defined depth in the skin. Axial resolution of the system is about 3 µm. The acquisition system was controlled by Labspec 5 software (Horiba Jobin Yvon). Raman profiles were recorded by collecting spectra from -6 µm above the surface of the skin and down to a depth of 30 µm. Four spectral profiles were obtained for each volunteer. Spectral data were preprocessed with MATLAB® 7.2 software (The MathWorks). Aberrant spectra differing by more than


two standard deviations from the profile were excluded from the data. Profiles selected underwent a series of corrections to clean up the Raman signal from the skin. The following descriptors were studied to determine changes of data relating to lipids.


The nCC trans/nCC gauche ratio The nCC trans/nCC gauche ratio shows information on the intramolecular conformation of lipids (sum of the bands 1,130 cm-1 by the pic at 1,080 cm-1


and 1,060 cm-1 , normalized ). The predominance


of the trans conformation results in an upper compactness of the cutaneous barrier. An upper quantity of gauche conformers, on the other hand, shows a weakened compactness of the cutaneous lipid structures:


The nasym Thenasym


CH2/nsym CH2/nsym


CH2 ratio CH2 ratio is an indicator of the lateral organization of SC lipids (pics at 2,885 cm-1 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE March 2026


Figure 2: Comparison of lipids between the normal and dry skin groups. The x-axis represents the variation between dry skin and normal skin. A lipid is considered modulated when this variation exceeds an absolute threshold of 20%. The y-axis indicates the significance of statistical tests


normalized by the one at 2,850 cm-1 ). High values


of this ratio are related to an ordered organization. A reduction of this ratio is related to a loss of organization and therefore a decrease of the barrier function. A weakening of the lipid matrix structure in dry skin was therefore shown (Figure 3).


Efficacy study of the natural active ingredient In response to these issues, the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus re-equilibrates the lipid matrix of dry skin in only 14 days when tested at 1% as a body care product on Caucasian volunteers with dry skin. Indeed, it restores the synthesis of 33% of lipids whose synthesis is


reduced in dry skin and improves the conformation and the organization of epidermal lipids. The efficacy and kinetics of action of the active


ingredient from Centaurea cyanus were compared to those of niacinamide, a reference molecule notably participating in the restoration of the cutaneous barrier function. These studies revealed a niacinamide-like action of the active ingredient (Figure 4).


Fight against skin dryness Lipid restructuring agent Thanks to its outstanding efficacy on the lipid matrix of dry skin, the active ingredient from Centaurea cyanus reinforces the barrier function as


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