90 FORMULATING


TABLE 3: SOLUBILITY OF THE HYDROPHILIC EMULSIFIER


Solvent Material (5%) Highly polar Water


Non-polar hydrocarbons Mineral oil


Isododecane Isoparaffin


Esters


C8-10 Triglycerides Isopropyl Myristate


alkyl benzoate Ethers Silicones


PPG-14 Butyl Ether Dicaprylyl ether


Cyclopentasiloxane Dimethicone


Phenyl Trimethicone Natural oils Olive oil Alcohols Glycols


Sunflower oil Castor oil


Silsurf I108 Soluble


Insoluble Insoluble


Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble


Trioctyldodecyl Citrate Soluble C12-15


Insoluble


Dispersible Insoluble Insoluble Insoluble


Dispersible


Trimethylsiloxysilicate Dispersible Dispersible Dispersible Dispersible Dispersible Dispersible Soluble Soluble Soluble Soluble Soluble


Octyldodecanol Isopropanol Ethanol Glycerin


Propylene Glycol Butylene Glycol Hexylene Glycol


Although the pigments were blended in water


phase before emulsification, there were pigments dispersed in both water and oil phase, this is due to the pigments are hydrophobic and some of them transferred into oil phase. The bottom images in Figure 5 show that


the pigments are well dispersed evenly in the oil phase when the pigments were blended in oil phase before emulsification. Therefore, Triethyloxycaprylylsilane treated pigments are better blended in oil phase before making this kind of hybrid emulsion. Miyoshi ACT treated hydrophobic pigments


were also used in water phase or oil phase before making the foundation respectively (Figure 6). The average particle size of the pigments blended in water phase before emulsification is much smaller than that of the pigments in oil phase which stayed in oil phase very well after emulsification. Yet for the case of pigments dispersed in water phase, the oil phase is hard to seen. In the case of pigments dispersed in oil phase, the oil drops with pigments were well observed, and the size distribution is normal for emulsion, the average particle size is around 3µm. Sensient Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone treated


pigments were also used for the testing, Figure 7 shows the microscopic images of the hybrid foundation made with two different ways. It shows that both methods (hydrophobic pigments blended in water phase or in oil phase) can be used to make the hybrid foundation, the average particle size


of the pigments blended in water phase (˜2 µm) is smaller than that of the pigments blended in oil


phase (˜3 µm), both size distributions are narrow. It is interesting that both hybrid emulsions


made with different methods have almost same PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE March 2026 2500X 1000X 2500X 1000X


O/W (w/Miyoshi Hydrophobic Pigments in Water Phase) Emulsion


O/W (w/Miyoshi Hydrophobic Pigments in Water Phase) Emulsion


Figure 6: Microscopic images of hybrid foundation with disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminium dimyristate and triethoxycaprylylsilane treated pigments in water phase and oil phase (Bottom)


Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Treated Pigments in Water Phase


Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Treated Pigments in Oil Phase


Figure 7: Microscopic images of hybrid foundation with trifluoropropyl dimethicone treated pigments in water phase (above) and oil phase respectively (bottom)


skin tone after dry on skin although there is little bit difference for the finished products in terms of the texture and fresh coverage.


Compatibility with personal care ingredients Table 3 shows the solubility of the hydrophilic emulsifier. The hydrophilic emulsifier was dissolved in the solvent respectively at 5%. The compatibility of the hydrophilic emulsifier with most personal care ingredients are good especially for polar solvent (soluble or dispersible) except with some of ingredients such as nonpolar organic and silicone fluids (insoluble). The best solvent for the hydrophilic emulsifier is water, alcohols and glycols.


Conclusion The hydrophilic emulsifier is especially formulated to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions when used as the sole emulsifier while providing excellent tactile properties to the emulsions. It also provides excellent dispersibility of powders and pigments. It is water soluble and easy to use; it can be cold processing to make O/W emulsion. Silsurf I108 (INCI name: PEG-8 Dimethicone)


opens a brand-new door for formulators to make different types of skin care, hair care and colour cosmetic finished products, especially for cold process to make a hybrid face foundation which combines the benefits of both regular and invert emulsion foundations.


PCM www.personalcaremagazine.com


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